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Routes in Tufa City
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Almighty, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Black Sunshine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Calcite Cruiser S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Canned Heat S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Couples Fear Factor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cry a Little Send a Little S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dead Sea S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Cocksman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fred's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grip It And Rip It S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ground Effects S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hivey League S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kryptic Curtain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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La Linea Negra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Micro Burst S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Millenium Meltdown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nambla S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Natural, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Rain Day S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rainbows and Tufacorns S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Renegade S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sacrificial Pig S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Short and Stiff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sidewinder S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Solar Delirium S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spicy Crispy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sun Burst S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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TuFa king S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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TuFa king $:@%*~! S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tufa the Soul S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Tufa Tussle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tufa Yard Dash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tufa-one S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tufasize Me S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Via Ferrari S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Way 'Stead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Mike Vaughn, Lucas Anaya |
| Page Views: | 3,366 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Red on Feb 25, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: - Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land.
In 2015, Access Fund acquired key privately owned access parcels when foreclosed on by the bank to keep it in climbing-friendly hands. Please park and camp on Access Fund property and take the new trail down. Please donate today at accessfund.org/homestead to secure permanent access and conservation of the Homestead.
Description
Steep start with a large hueco-like hole, pull the first roof onto paralleling tufa's up to a second smaller roof. Fun climbing on great rock leads to a higher pump crux followed by a jug haul finish to the anchors.
A 60 meter rope is more than enough to climb this route and lower back to the Balcony(where the route starts). A 70 meter rope will reach from the balcony to the anchors and all the way to the ground. 70m is NOT long enough for both ends to reach the ground from the anchor. When using a 60 meter rope make sure to only lower the climber to the balcony and not the ground.
A 60 meter rope is more than enough to climb this route and lower back to the Balcony(where the route starts). A 70 meter rope will reach from the balcony to the anchors and all the way to the ground. 70m is NOT long enough for both ends to reach the ground from the anchor. When using a 60 meter rope make sure to only lower the climber to the balcony and not the ground.
Location
The first and currently the only route up on the Tufa Balcony. Solar Delirium is located directly above Spicy Crispy. The Balcony spans roughly from above La Linea Negra to above Flying Cocksman. You can access the balcony by climbing and topping out any of the eight routes located under it. Except for Short and Stiff, it's too short. The easiest route would probably be Rain Day followed by Couples Fear Factor. There is a Via Ferrata along the balcony for safety and a two bolt anchor in the middle to belay up a second and for repelling.
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