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Technical climbs at the RED

EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
todd w wrote: Because it's one of the most greased-up and gang-banged climbs at the entire red river gorge. A decent climb, but is it worth that kind of attention? Hell no. But it's next to a couple of 5.7's, so there ya go.
Haha so because its popular that makes it one of the worst climbs in the red? The starting feet are greasy but other than that there is NO grease on it. At a lot of sport crags out west that would be the best climb at the entire crag.

I still dont think its five stars and awesome but its def a decent 5.10
EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
JohnWesely wrote: Everything.
liiiiiike? What do you hate about it? I agree the first 5 feet is usually wet and greasy... But for a 5.10 climb what sucks about the rest? Its just mellow pocket pulling, not sure what there is to hate.
JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585
EricSchmidt wrote: liiiiiike? What do you hate about it? I agree the first 5 feet is usually wet and greasy... But for a 5.10 climb what sucks about the rest? Its just mellow pocket pulling, not sure what there is to hate.
The first half is polished, awkward, and lame. The top is about as generic and lame as is possible.
EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
JohnWesely wrote: The first half is polished, awkward, and lame. The top is about as generic and lame as is possible.
First half is polished? Not really, it must have been a while since you got on it. Its polished to the first bolt then its all good.

The top is generic and lame? Probably cause you are a 12 climber.... To someone breaking into the 10 range I am sure its not "generic". Either way how is an outdoor climb generic?
todd w · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

It only gets the traffic because of its location and grade, not because it's that great of a climb. It's very middle of the road for the red.

The grease and excess chalk make it go from a so-so climb to a sub par one.

EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
todd w wrote:It only gets the traffic because of its location and grade, not because it's that great of a climb. It's very middle of the road for the red. The grease and excess chalk make it go from a so-so climb to a sub par one.
Huh? What do you mean by "its location"? I guess you havent been to the red recently but left flank is not considered a prime location hahaha. Try PMRP or Muir. What 10a would you asy is 5 stars then? And what 10a is worse than it?
BCA · · michigan · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

random precision
baby blue eyes
brown eyed girl
some humans ain't human
karmic retribution
return to balance
edge-a-sketch

random precision is one of my favorite routes at the gorge and it sounds like just what you're looking for. a pure line without a lot of unnecessary hand holds. its got technical footwork, a few good rests, and is solid at 11b. if you're breaking into the grade and don't prefer steep, juggy climbs, you should totally get on it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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