Technical climbs at the RED
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Looking for recommendations for crags with good technical sport climbs in the 10-11 range, something that's not jug haul or pumpfest. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!! |
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Suppress the Rage, 12a at Sunnyside Crag. Random Precision, 11b at The Gallery. Happy Trails, 10d at The Gallery. Are just a few off the top of my head. Plenty of others too if you look. |
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Yellow Brick Road, 11b |
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Thread the Needle 11b (it may actually be called Eye of the Needle) |
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Why do people always call it "the RED". Its weird people always put Red in all caps... |
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Ruby Slippers and it's neighbors |
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Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditions |
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The northern gorge tends to be more vertical and somewhat technical. Check out Eastern Sky Bridge and Funk Rock. Have you climbed at the New? |
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Psyberpunk at Inner Sanctum (Muir Valley) and Karmic Retribution at the same crag. |
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Hen-ry!, at Left Flank is a good choice. 5.11b slab climbing involving a lot of small iron-ribbon crimps. Definitely not a jug haul by pretty much any standard. |
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Onward to the NRG young man!!! Thar lays the land of all styles of technique. With that said, the first route that comes to mind at the RRG, is The Gift. A bit tougher than what you were looking for at 12a but still worth climbing. Good varied climbing that will keep you thinking all the way to the end. |
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Dave the Dude (11d) is a must do. There's also All Things Considered (11d), No Place Like Home (11c) and Diamond in the Rough (10c) |
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mozeman wrote:Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditionsThat is because it is one of the worst climbs in the gorge. |
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Dang, I was all excited to reply here with a big list of techy 10s and 11s, but it looks like folks already got most of them covered. Just to re-state, go to the Northern Region and you'll have as many techy grades as you want, well into the 5.12 range if you want. |
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JohnWesely wrote: That is because it is one of the worst climbs in the gorge.Agreed, Defy is pretty bad, especially considering the muck at the start. Check out Toxic Avenger at Wall of Denial. Probably one of the best techy 10's at the Red. Diamond in the Rough is another one. Just about all of the Emerald City. What About Bob wall has a bunch of good ones. Areterection is great at the Stadium. No Place Like Home may be the best 11 at the Red. Chica Bonita has a whole wall of good techy 10's and 11's. Same with the Playground. I search out these types of climbs also. They are lots of fun. |
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mozeman wrote:Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditionsProbably cause its not really a slab climb or technical. Its vertical pockets with hundreds of holds to choose from so nothing really technical about it except maybe ONE move at the second bolt. Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it??? |
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Will definitely check out some of them next time! I was at the Gallery the past weekend, saw some vertical/slab lines, but unfortunately they were soaked from melting snow... |
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EricSchmidt wrote: Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???Everything. |
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Random precision (gallery) |
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EricSchmidt wrote:Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???Because it's one of the most greased-up and gang-banged climbs at the entire red river gorge. A decent climb, but is it worth that kind of attention? Hell no. But it's next to a couple of 5.7's, so there ya go. |
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Joseph DeGaetano wrote:Onward to the NRG young man!!! Thar lays the land of all styles of technique. With that said, the first route that comes to mind at the RRG, is The Gift. A bit tougher than what you were looking for at 12a but still worth climbing. Good varied climbing that will keep you thinking all the way to the end.Yeah, the gift is probably the best of anything mentioned here. But it has a steep top that will make you shit your pants if you're leading it blind. |