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Technical climbs at the RED

Original Post
ZoeyG · · Brattleboro, VT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 625

Looking for recommendations for crags with good technical sport climbs in the 10-11 range, something that's not jug haul or pumpfest. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!!

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

Suppress the Rage, 12a at Sunnyside Crag. Random Precision, 11b at The Gallery. Happy Trails, 10d at The Gallery. Are just a few off the top of my head. Plenty of others too if you look.

Timothy · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 10

Yellow Brick Road, 11b

Derrick W · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 868

Thread the Needle 11b (it may actually be called Eye of the Needle)

EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Why do people always call it "the RED". Its weird people always put Red in all caps...

But to answer your question, look in the guidebook there are TONS of slab/technical climbs. If you go to redriverclimbing.com I believe you can even search for climbs based on charecterstics you are looking for.

Fleetwood Matt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 620

Ruby Slippers and it's neighbors

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditions

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

The northern gorge tends to be more vertical and somewhat technical. Check out Eastern Sky Bridge and Funk Rock. Have you climbed at the New?

All Things Considered Is kinda techy and different.

carmenh · · Hamburg, Germany · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Psyberpunk at Inner Sanctum (Muir Valley) and Karmic Retribution at the same crag.

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

Hen-ry!, at Left Flank is a good choice. 5.11b slab climbing involving a lot of small iron-ribbon crimps. Definitely not a jug haul by pretty much any standard.

mountainproject.com/v/henry…

Joseph DeGaetano · · Fayetteville, WV but curren… · Joined May 2008 · Points: 560

Onward to the NRG young man!!! Thar lays the land of all styles of technique. With that said, the first route that comes to mind at the RRG, is The Gift. A bit tougher than what you were looking for at 12a but still worth climbing. Good varied climbing that will keep you thinking all the way to the end.

Cocoapuffs 1000 · · Columbus, OH · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 50

Dave the Dude (11d) is a must do. There's also All Things Considered (11d), No Place Like Home (11c) and Diamond in the Rough (10c)

If you want to push it, Straightedge (12a) is a great and overlooked climb.

JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585
mozeman wrote:Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditions
That is because it is one of the worst climbs in the gorge.
camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

Dang, I was all excited to reply here with a big list of techy 10s and 11s, but it looks like folks already got most of them covered. Just to re-state, go to the Northern Region and you'll have as many techy grades as you want, well into the 5.12 range if you want.

A day at Funk Rock would be amazing, with great 10s (Manic Impression, Funkadelic, as well as some great gear routes, too), then some 11s (Eye of the Needle, and "There Goes the Neighborhood" is a bit juggy, but still brilliant), and even a few 12s to push your tech on, like "Go Easy Billy Clyde" and the uber classic "Orange Juice."

Pebble Beach would be good for 10s, too, and if you want to plug some gear, Central Scrutinizer is excellent 5.9 face trad. Not a lot of 11s there, though.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
JohnWesely wrote: That is because it is one of the worst climbs in the gorge.
Agreed, Defy is pretty bad, especially considering the muck at the start.

Check out Toxic Avenger at Wall of Denial. Probably one of the best techy 10's at the Red. Diamond in the Rough is another one. Just about all of the Emerald City. What About Bob wall has a bunch of good ones. Areterection is great at the Stadium. No Place Like Home may be the best 11 at the Red. Chica Bonita has a whole wall of good techy 10's and 11's. Same with the Playground. I search out these types of climbs also. They are lots of fun.
EricSchmidt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
mozeman wrote:Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditions
Probably cause its not really a slab climb or technical. Its vertical pockets with hundreds of holds to choose from so nothing really technical about it except maybe ONE move at the second bolt.

Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???
ZoeyG · · Brattleboro, VT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 625

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Will definitely check out some of them next time! I was at the Gallery the past weekend, saw some vertical/slab lines, but unfortunately they were soaked from melting snow...

JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585
EricSchmidt wrote: Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???
Everything.
todd w · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

Random precision (gallery)
Eye of the needle (funk rock)
No place like home (emerald city)
Toxic Avenger (wall of denial)

RedRiverClimbing.com would be a much better place to ask, though

todd w · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0
EricSchmidt wrote:Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???
Because it's one of the most greased-up and gang-banged climbs at the entire red river gorge. A decent climb, but is it worth that kind of attention? Hell no. But it's next to a couple of 5.7's, so there ya go.
todd w · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0
Joseph DeGaetano wrote:Onward to the NRG young man!!! Thar lays the land of all styles of technique. With that said, the first route that comes to mind at the RRG, is The Gift. A bit tougher than what you were looking for at 12a but still worth climbing. Good varied climbing that will keep you thinking all the way to the end.
Yeah, the gift is probably the best of anything mentioned here.

But it has a steep top that will make you shit your pants if you're leading it blind.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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