Connecticut sport climbing on the cover of Rock&Ice???
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first the boulder chipping in the Gunks and now this? |
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isn't that the state that has that douche bag that chops rumney every now and then? |
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there is a whole posse of douche supporters so its not just one guy really |
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I thought it was only K N. I didn't realize there are other like minded people out there. it's kinda funny, i went to a local crag near my house back in the fall for a little top rope solo and when i got to the base of the crag i saw bolts drilled into the rock.. i haven't been to this spot in about 3 years or so and thought it was a secret. When i found it there was zero evidence of anybody climbing there. i just set up climbed and never mentioned it to anyone, didn't wanna get someones hard work chopped. |
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Did Ken Nichol's ever actually chop Rumney? |
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jim.dangle wrote:Did Ken Nichol's ever actually chop Rumney? JimYes. He also made it all the way up to the Camden area of Maine and chopped an entire cliff called "The Verticals." |
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jim.dangle wrote:Did Ken Nichol's ever actually chop Rumney? JimI've always heard that he did early on - if Mark is still around he'll know. |
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TRmasta wrote:first the boulder chipping in the Gunks and now this? Is Jesus happy or sad?So I take it the article is now out? This is going to be great for CT... Oh wait, shhhhhhiiiiiit...... |
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CaptainMo wrote: So I take it the article is now out? This is going to be great for CT... Oh wait, shhhhhhiiiiiit......Well, they were fun while they lasted. |
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Of the areas mentioned in the article I had only heard of three (West Rock, Fire Wall, Chatfield Hollow) previously. Guess that's what happens when you stick to CT's nether regions hahaha. As for Nichols in my neck of the woods, think he was the one who chopped some bolts on the cliffs at The Res in GB. A Shame, looked like they woulda been some nice sport and mixed lines. I wonder if some bolts will reemerge if him and his minions are easing off these days. |
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CaptainMo wrote: I've always heard that he did early on - if Mark is still around he'll know.Nichols chopped Rumney in 1990 and admitted to it in a May 1991 interview in Rock and Ice. |
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Its nice to see CT partially come out of the dark ages. |
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Interested in reading this article. |
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CJC wrote:great article. says even some old trad lines are being bolted.I think there's a is a bit of a grey area in that statement... |
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CaptainMo wrote: I think there's a is a bit of a grey area in that statement...a large gray area. I am 100% certain no cracks have bolts on them and many of the routes are mixed since there was good gear to be had. |
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Really curious to see if this brings Ken and/or his minions out of the woodwork with their tools (they can probably buy Ivan's on ebay if they need new ones)... I really hope not, but the history in CT is hard to ignore. |
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CJC wrote: I have the article right here. "The route Fresh Bag (5.8) was bolted over a former trad line called Forest Fire (5.8), and bolts also appeared on the trad line Smoke Out (5.7)." where is the grey area??The grey area that we are talking about are the bolts which were added to the line depicted below in black, while Smoke out is the dotted line on the right. Smoke Out as depicted doesn't have ANY bolts right now (I was last there in Nov). The black solid line is a mixed line that requires gear to prevent a possible ground fall and from what I can tell it's not the same as Forest Fire. Brian is using 1 mixed route that was bolted and claiming two different trad routes were bolted... which IMO neither was. Also important but not directly relevant to this is that these are not traditional trad climbs these are face climbs (no cracks and 60ft) with one horizontal 30ft off the ground. |
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CJC wrote: so the article is wrong then? considering the controversial nature of bolting in CT in general, and bolting trad routes in particular you'd hope the author would get it absolutely right.the line drawing is not quite right, Fresh Bag (AKA Mobes Route) shares a start with Smoke Out but in no way is the same route after that. so yeah, its wrong. |
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Given that, I think 1 bolt was added to the start of smoke out... So that makes sense - Brian got that right. |
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That guy is lucky i don't live in that state or there would be a bolt rebellion. I'd bolt up whatever area he frequents and then some. At least you guys have bolted some stuff despite this douche. |
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CaptainMo wrote:Given that, I think 1 bolt was added to the start of smoke out... So that makes sense - Brian got that right.sharing a start is a BIG difference from bolting over a crack. when I do Fresh Bag I look over to the right at that manky dirt and grass filled crack that hasnt seen an ascent in 20+ years and think "wow, how come none of the trad climbers that CT is known for ever do this" and then I pull the roof over a piece of gear and forget all about it every time. Of course not finding a place to actually protect the first half of Smoke Out might deter the average 5.7 climber from wanting to do the climb. |