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My biceps have been killing me for 2 years, and doctors are baffled at the symptoms.

dain charette · · South Lake · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0

I have had this type of pain before from bouldering to many days on, couple questions:
Do you stretch your biceps? I found that stretching them helped a lot.

Does it hurt when you move your arm from a straight to locked position while squeezing a rubber donut or squeezing a fist?
Try hammer curls, I found that my biceps were strong but my brachialis (the muscle that helps lock your arm: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brach…)was really weak and that was causing a lot of issues.

Last, do you any shoulder exercises (press or like an earlier post mentioned, doing rotating motions with low weight?) I dislocated my shoulder a few years ago and found that my shoulder was really weak. This forced my lower arm to overcompensate, creating a lot of aggravation.

Just my two cents, but I am pain free if I stay on top of the maintenance exercises. If not the pain will come right back.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Reedrombo · · Home is where you park it · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 30

So it's been a while since I posted this and since I've partially solved the issue. Before I was climbing 5 days a week, and was projecting every time plus training etc. So I started scheduling moderate days where I wouldn't climb above 5.10.

I would only project one day a week and that started making a difference. But, what made the biggest difference was I stopped training on rings.

Before I was training on rings three times a week. So, I just cut rings out and only do them 4 or 5 times a month now. Made all the difference in the world. I think it was just too much of a strain on my arms to be climbing hard, doing lots of pull ups, and training on rings.

Thanks for all the help, I still get pain occasionally if I push it too hard for a bit but I have it under control enough now to be able to take a few days off and it goes away.

Hopefully this helps someone else out with similar issues.

Just Solo · · Colorado Springs · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 80
Reedrombo wrote:So it's been a while since I posted this and since I've partially solved the issue. Before I was climbing 5 days a week, and was projecting every time plus training etc. So I started scheduling moderate days where I wouldn't climb above 5.10. I would only project one day a week and that started making a difference. But, what made the biggest difference was I stopped training on rings. Before I was training on rings three times a week. So, I just cut rings out and only do them 4 or 5 times a month now. Made all the difference in the world. I think it was just too much of a strain on my arms to be climbing hard, doing lots of pull ups, and training on rings. Thanks for all the help, I still get pain occasionally if I push it too hard for a bit but I have it under control enough now to be able to take a few days off and it goes away. Hopefully this helps someone else out with similar issues.
Yep, sounds distinctively like over training. Easy to do. BTW if you do have symptoms of TOS, rings are not a great option. But it sounds like you are on the right path.
William Domhart · · Ventucky, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 5

I've had the same thing that you were having and I found that it was from over exertion. I was doing a lot of the same things that you were doing and I couldn't figure out what it was. I eventually just dialed it back a bit and listened to my body. Goodluck.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

well now that this is all finished up I'd just like to add this last bit of information.

Quit bouldering Reed :)

p.s. - we're friends!

wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10

What you're describing in your arm sounds a lot like what I experienced in my leg. It was caused by a pinched nerve. I think numbness and/or tingling are often signs of a nerve problem.

Reedrombo · · Home is where you park it · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 30

Greg, you just had to be the only asshole on the feed. You ruined the only feed on MP that had only positive responses ;-)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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