Freebie Bolts..safe?
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So my buddy gave me some freebie bolts and before messing with them I wanted to know if they were legit. He bought a box at a hardware store, so it made me question their quality in a climbing application. He also gave me some Fixe hangers, I believe they're stainless steel. I don't know if the bolts are also stainless. I know you shouldn't mix stainless with plated, so this is another question I'm looking to get answered. Any info anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated. |
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I just googled "Red Head WS-3836", which was printed on the box label. It bought me to this link http://www.drillspot.com/products/44321/Red_Head_WS-3836_Wedge_Anchor that said they were carbon steel. So a no go on mixing these bolts and hangers? |
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Edited: |
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Typically people don't buy climbing equipment at hardware stores. There are climbing applications for such bolts, but anyone who is qualified to use them wouldn't have to ask on the internet. |
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You should get stainless bolts to go with those hangers. Those Redheads are what we call plated steel (zinc). |
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What Mike said. |
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Mike Lane wrote:You should get stainless bolts to go with those hangers. Those Redheads are what we call plated steel (zinc). Redheads have been used by climbers thousands of times, but IMO are the bottom rung of bolts. You are already ahead a couple bucks per unit with free hangers, get some nice stainless Hilti Kwick bolts, stainless Powers 5 pc., or a good glue in.Mike is right. Get stainless steel bolts to match with those hangers. If you are worried about price, then go to the website I listed below. They carry stainless wedge bolts for between $1.25-1.65 a bolt (it depends on what they are carrying at the moment...it varies between Hilti, Powers, etc., but always quality hardware). As Mike said, you already have good hangers for free, it seems trivial to drop ~$1.50 per bolt for bomber hardware. rapbolting.com/ |
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LOL, they weren't bought througha hardware store, they were bought through a bolting gear supplier (think gearx maybe) few years ago, same with the hangers.... |
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FooDawg wrote:LOL, they weren't bought througha hardware store, they were bought through a bolting gear supplier (think gearx maybe) few years ago, same with the hangers....This doesn't change the fact that he has SS hangers and plated bolts. Buy new bolts Cricket. |
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Since Rock Cricket is posting from CT, does the type of bolts used matter much? Ken Nichols will probably chop them by mid-summer anyway. |
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JCM wrote:Since Rock Cricket is posting from CT, does the type of bolts used matter much? Ken Nichols will probably chop them by mid-summer anyway. If the stainless bolts also come with a special Ken-proof coating, then you are in business.Lolol, check out the new Rock and Ice for an article on what's up these days around here. Just saw it yesterday myself... |
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Thanks for the good suggestions. When it comes time to put some in I'll definitely go pick up some stainless. |
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Meh, they are Red Heads. They are okay, but better bolts exist. Anyway, if you have to ask this type of stuff on the net you need more experience and knowledge before bolting. Get with a local expert in your area. |
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I concur with several above posters. There are better bolts. |
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I have already talked to an experienced bolter that I know and if I'm lucky he'll mentor me for a bit. Also, I have placed practice bolts in smaller rocks before. Don't worry, I'm not going out there willy nilly bolting shit without experience. Aside from researching all of the legit info on bolting (ASCA, Camp4, etc.), why not ask opinions of experienced individuals online. People have to start somewhere right? As I'm sure some of you did. I am simply asking because I haven't heard of the bolts before. Yes, I could have googled them - and did, but I wanted to get some consensus, if there was some to be had. |
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Agreed Ryan. Asking questions online is no big deal...more information always helps. Good luck. |
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See if your bolts stick to a magnet. The hangers will have a very mild attraction as a comparison (they're 300 series stainless). If the bolts are plated steel (and I suspect they are), they'll stick to a magnet. |
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Rock Cricket wrote: ALSO, they'd be placed in super solid granitic gneiss.Never consider them for sandstone ... re the death on Bunny Buckets. |
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Brian in SLC wrote:See if your bolts stick to a magnet. The hangers will have a very mild attraction as a comparison (they're 300 series stainless). If the bolts are plated steel (and I suspect they are), they'll stick to a magnet. Especially in the east in the U.S., I'd bump up to stainless for sure. Its just too wet to consider otherwise. Not sure I've ever seen galvanic corrosion from disimilar metals used as a climbing anchor, ie, a stainless hanger and non-stainless bolt, but, if it did occur, the bolt would be the item sacrificied and the damage probably wouldn't be visible (except maybe rust streaks). Stainless versus non-stainless...here's the difference from Stone Mountain in North Carolina...:That's a great post Brian. |
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Why doesn't climbtech make 3/8" removable bolts? |
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tenesmus wrote:Why doesn't climbtech make 3/8" removable bolts?My understanding is that the 3/8" doesn't make it to the 22kN (5,000 lb.) strength required for single-point anchorage. Totem is planning on making a 10mm version of the RB but I have no idea when it will really hit the streets. |