Mountain Project Logo

Five Ten stonelands

Rob Lilley · · Greensboro, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 85
sweagan wrote:Rob Lilley Have you tried these on yet? How does the heel compare to the Anasazi VCS? I like the way the front half of my Anasazi's climb but the heel does not conform to my foot and will typically pop off if I heel hook hard.
I haven't, but I'm told that the heel on the Stonelands range is a lower volume one than the Anasazi. The Anasazi heel is is a real love/hate thing, it fits some people fine and is truly dire for others.

I think that one of the problems is that Five Ten woefully downplay the amount the Anasazi's stretch which leads to people buying them too big and leaving dead space in the heel area. Seeing as the Stonelands models are supposed to be more of a comfort shoe there will be less expectation for the customer to be sizing down radically for a tight fit, so the heel volume will be more in line with the forefoot.
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

I tried the lace and velcro on today at the gym. I wear a size 12 in galileo's comfortably with good performance, and an 11.5 in anasazi V2's, but too tight for more than a pitch or 2.

The lace was incredibly comfortable in a 12, It climbed decent in the gym but didn't edge terribly well. The toes are flatter and the sole is softer compared to my galileo's or anasazi's. Feels like a good all day shoe though.

The velcro in the same size felt tighter and bit less comfortable, I think it had a tid more volume in the toebox. It did edge a little better. I didn't wear them enough to say much more about them. They're lined leather so they'll probably stretch out a little and get more comfortable.

These have the lowest volume heel of any of the 5.10's i've tried, which is what drew me to try them on. Everything normally has alot of deadspace/bag in the heels for me and these were much better. The toe shape is a strange asymetric, it's almost a square corner from inside edge to front-point, slowly rounding out to the side edge. Probably not great for tiny pockets. They didn't focus the power as well on the outside edge as an anasazi or galileo because of the shape, but shape is the reason they're more comfortable.

Both of them have a very high toe rand that protects the toe knuckles if you're jamming. I think they'd do very well for crack and slab climbing, and would be a good all day shoe.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I heard tonight that our local store; Wilson's Eastside just got some in stock. I doubt they have my size though.

Matt Berrett · · utah · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10
GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I stopped by Wilson's this week and handled the Velcro and slipper. They seem a lot like the Anasazi in stiffness and shape. Not really sure what the point is in these "new" shoes. Of course they didn't have my size so maybe they'll fit better than Anasazis.

Rob Lilley · · Greensboro, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 85

How did the sizing compare to Anasazi's? I'm planning to order a pair in the next week or so.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872
Rob Lilley wrote:How did the sizing compare to Anasazi's? I'm planning to order a pair in the next week or so.
I'm a 11.5 in anasazi's, which are very tight in the toes and across the slingshot at my Achilles, but have some deadspace in the heel. In these i was trying a 12 which had much less dead space in the heel and was more comfortable (but still fit well). I wouldn't buy myself a pair of these in 11.5, but could probably fit in that size very tight like my anasazi's if i had to. So my advice based on a sample size of 1 is probably half a size bigger.
jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

Anyone tried these yet? Reviews?

Jim

Rob Lilley · · Greensboro, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 85

I've got a pair on order but it'll be a while before I get my hands on them, maybe this time next week before I can give any initial impressions.

Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

Hey everyone, just want to chime in here on the Stonelands. The lined leather uppers are Softer than the cowdura used on Anasazi but the lining (soft cotton) helps resist stretching.

The last is all new and unique to the group. New toe box shape keeps feet happier by allowing more room for the outside of the foot, think no knuckled toes when jamming :) and a more anatomical big toe position for comfortable performance while edging. The last is also built more flat like the foot shape than cylindrical like most lasts. The arch is narrower, and the heel pod lower volume overall, with less slingshot tension than the Anasazi.

As for climbing I've climbed in the Vcs model most. The Vcs I used in the gym and on steep granite at Index. Very comfy good performance and versatile. Still would choose Anasazi for super techy.

I have used the slipper up at Tahquitz and as far as simple and secure, The slipper is the shit... Like a beloved MOCC but a bit stiffer under the toes and no need to aggressively down size to accommodate for stretch. Great crack shoe, fun for smearing md edging, and pretty darn comfy for longer stuff.

I found that fitting my street shoe size was nice and snug, and since I'm not jamming my feet in a super tight shoe, I subsequently haven't seen much stretch at all thanks to the lining...they have softened in all the right spots giving me a nice broken in, yet no slop fit.

C4 rubber, good rand shape for jamming, and a great price. The fit is all new for those familiar to five ten shoes, and any other shoes for that matter. I'd try them on if you can and you'll see what I mean.

Hope this helps.

Kevin

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Wow Kevin,

Thanks for the unbiased review!

I think im going with tenayas though.

Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

No problem. Can't comment on tenayas, but hope they fit and climb well for you.

For clarity sake, I sell Five Ten shoes and have worked for the company for 6 years. I have climbed for 20 plus years in many different brands, and prefer the way five ten fit my feet and how they climb on my feet. The information I provided was truth for me. Asking others how they like shoes will get you opinions. All feet and climbing experiences are different. Like I mentioned if folks are interested try them on. If I need to say something negative to have a unbiased review, I'm not a fan of the doo-doo brown color on the slipper, and could do without the western theme stitching.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Stealthy, how is the toe for 1" cracks compared to discontinued supermoccs?

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165
Ben Hicks wrote:Stealthy, how is the toe for 1" cracks compared to discontinued supermoccs?
I'd like to know that too
Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

stonelands vs. supermocc for jamming 1" cracks

supermoccs were made to excel at thin cracks and all climbing requiring ultimate foot flexibility, sensitivity, and "feel". they had thinner outsoles, thinner rands, and a unique toe shape combined with stretchable unlined leather uppers that by design allowed them to get sticky rubber wrapped toes into cracks very well.

talking about toe box shape for thin cracks, the stonelands last shape allows the foot to stay more flat, less knuckled into the toe box following more the shape of the foot. i find that for all hand and smaller sized cracks, i'm better off with minimal to no knuckling of the toes, especially the outside toes as they are the ones that get cranked and torqued into cracks. the stonelands do a great job of keeping the outside toes flat due to the shape of the last. the rubber is C4 and the thickness is not as thin as the mystique rubber used on supermoccs, but a versatile thickness for overall performance and value ( longer lasting)

It really comes down to how the shoes feel on your feet. If you fit the StoneLANDS well, then your outside toes should feel like they are lying pretty flat which will allow them to slide into thinner cracks

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165

thanks!

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

OK, Thanks, I'll have to get a firsthand look at them. More sole is a good thing in my book as my first pair of supermoccs blew out on the bottom of the sole under the big toe with only a couple thousand feet of crack climbing. And, I am no thrasher, I have good footwork. The rands still looked completely new and the edges had minimal wear. I thought it was pretty stupid design that the sole thickness under the toe was 1 mm or less.

Agree, flat toes are way better for crack!

Matt Berrett · · utah · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

How would you size the stonelands for long multi pitch crack climbing? should I go down a half size or just stay with my street shoe size?? I don't want my toes to be curled but I also don't want them to be baggy...

Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

hey ben, i know what you mean about the 1mm outsole. thin outsoles do create loads of feeling, slim profile for thin crack and the ability to grab with your toes. the trade-off can be that less material will simply not last as long as thicker harder rubber.i found that to be true while climbing sometimes sharp highly textured granite in thin rubber outsoles.

Mattberr,

the stonelands fit me tighter than the same size in anasazi. i'm a 12 street shoe, typically wear anasazi verde and VCS in 11.5. for the climbing you describe i would suggest street shoe size, but you will know when you put them on your feet. i believe they should fit you snug but comfy with minimal dead space and ideally flatter toes to make crack work more enjoyable. the lined nature of the uppers, and especially the lined synthetic of the lace-up will help prevent any bagginess over time. the leather will breathe better than synthetic and by nature could stretch more if fit very tight

in my stonelands size 12 (street shoe size), i have a very slighlty bent big toe and flat toes for the rest. the arch sucks right up, and the heel pod is filled nicely. the slingshot tension is secure but not aggressive and i dont have any hot spots or pressure points. for me, if im not choosing moccasyms for long routes, then the fit i get on street shoe sized stonelands is pretty ideal. other shoes i like for all-day multi-pitch crack and face are the coyote vcs and the hueco.

have fun on those long days out and hope you find a great fitting shoe!

Immo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Hi Guys.

I'm a new user from South Africa and am in need of some advice.

I am aware that the sizing question is an ongoing one, but I really need a definitive answer.

I want to get the Stonelands laces shipped over to me in Cape Town (They are not available in SA) primarily for multipitch trad and sport climbing. Now, because I can't go to a store to try them on, I need to make sure I order the right size. I wear an Anasazi VCS in size UK8, but I bought them too small. Well that said my feet are different sizes. My left foot is unbearably painfull, where as my right foot is super snug. I can't handle more than 1 pitch in them(I originally bought them for bouldering). I tried on a friends pair of Anasazi Verdes on in a size UK9 yesterday, on my smaller foot and they seemed ok.

Please advise whether I should go for a UK8.5 of UK9.

Help would be much appreciated.

Immo

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Five Ten stonelands"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.