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Routes in The Bride
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Honeymoon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2 |
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Shotgun Wedding T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1+ R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Eric Bjornstad, Fred Beckey, Jim Hudock 1972 |
| Page Views: | 2,012 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Jun 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This was the first route to be established on the Bride and is still a fairly serious undertaking today. Like Sam says on the Little Valley page, the rock here is very soft for wingate and climbs more like entrada. Expect a little spice.
PItch 1 - This pitch begins with a stud-ladder about 100 feet to the left (when viewed from the road) of the Bride in a short, shallow, right facing dihedral. Above the stud-ladder this pitch follows a left facing dihedral and eventually climbs a gully to access the bench behind the Bride. (C1, 5.7)
Pitch 2 - From the top of the first pitch, scramble along the bench to the opposite side of the Bride and climb a short bit of unprotected 5.6 to reach the saddle directly behind the Bride. (5.6 R)
Pitch 3 - This is the business. From the saddle, traverse right to a crack. Follow this crack until it ends and continue upward on rivets and pitons with the occasional gear placement. The first ascent party climbed this in two pitches but the midpoint anchor is 4 empty holes and after I filled them all and equalized the whole thing, I still didn't feel comfortable letting Matt jug on it.
I chose to continue and suffered horrendous rope drag near the top for not using enough runners low on the pitch. This pitch corkscrews around the tower counter-clock wise so manage your rope accordingly. There are some mandatory free moves at the top. (5.6, A2)
Rappel the Honeymoon Chimney route on big, new bolts courtesy of Sam and the ASCA.
PItch 1 - This pitch begins with a stud-ladder about 100 feet to the left (when viewed from the road) of the Bride in a short, shallow, right facing dihedral. Above the stud-ladder this pitch follows a left facing dihedral and eventually climbs a gully to access the bench behind the Bride. (C1, 5.7)
Pitch 2 - From the top of the first pitch, scramble along the bench to the opposite side of the Bride and climb a short bit of unprotected 5.6 to reach the saddle directly behind the Bride. (5.6 R)
Pitch 3 - This is the business. From the saddle, traverse right to a crack. Follow this crack until it ends and continue upward on rivets and pitons with the occasional gear placement. The first ascent party climbed this in two pitches but the midpoint anchor is 4 empty holes and after I filled them all and equalized the whole thing, I still didn't feel comfortable letting Matt jug on it.
I chose to continue and suffered horrendous rope drag near the top for not using enough runners low on the pitch. This pitch corkscrews around the tower counter-clock wise so manage your rope accordingly. There are some mandatory free moves at the top. (5.6, A2)
Rappel the Honeymoon Chimney route on big, new bolts courtesy of Sam and the ASCA.
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