Many options exist. This being the groin jam technique.

All Locations > New York > Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - T… > Ceiling (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Many options exist. This being the groin jam technique.

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My lead of the money pitch. Thank you Ashlee for the picture.

me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011

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Benjamin Brooke

Feb 20, 2013

“Many options exist. This being the groin jam technique.”

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Nearby Photos

Going big!

Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux roof.

the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's<br>

1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt

Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's Ceiling (5.7)<br>
<br>
A cropped version of a photo submitted by Denis O'Connor.

Start

Shortly after this, he fell. This is the photo that was displayed at the Mohonk Visitor Center for many years, and is the photo that "covers" Shockley's Ceiling in Dick Dumais' book "The Shawangunks", here digitized from the original slide.

pitch 2 roof

Derek underneath the first crux roof.

Pulling the move

Jen pulling the classic roof. (Short people beware).

pitch 2

Finishing

Bruno Hamann leading Shockley's Ceiling, "the Gunks."

Chilly day on Shockley's<br>
<br>

Looking down on the first crux roof. An exploratory hand emerges...

the intermediate rap right below the ceiling is a bit crunched, but at least I got a seat

Craig Plescia - Summer 2015<br>
<br>
Wedging in there for the reach.

She demonstrated a lot of strength during this struggle, with much of her weight on her arms.

Spacious ledge at the top of first pitch. We made an anchor in the left corner, but the route goes to the right.

My good friend Mark M leading Shockley's Ceiling circa 1981. I think we graduated HS a few weeks prior.

Nice shot from the hairpin on 12 December of someone getting some!

Taken roughly a month after 9/11

It's a tough move for 5.6, especially if you don't have experience with the Gunks. And it was Crystal's first visit.

Unknown climber at the second roof on P3

Trying to get her thigh up over the lip.

under the crux

Jesse looking up at Shockley's Ceiling. We traversed over from Strickley's Shockley's where we did the Oscar & Charlie start

Crystal begins negotiating the roof.

Chris Gregory pulling "the move" on Shockley's. May 2018. Photo by Ben Hoste.

Even my 6'7" husband, Pawel, was stretching to make this reach!

Just under the roof

Gearing up for the roof crux on P3. There are abundant placement opportunities here.

Derek and Crystal from Gloversville, NY. Starting up P3.

Ryan cruising the crux roof on P3

Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.

He stopped and belayed in the middle of the pitch, at the top of the corner above the first crux roof. A very good idea if the follower might have trouble with the roof.

RRuef pulling the roof of Shockley's, after linking it with the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere

AJ pulling the roof

pulling the roof move

Success! And she managed to maintain her sense of humor.

My lead of the money pitch. Thank you Ashlee for the picture.

Many options exist. This being the groin jam technique.

me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011

The best part

I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Strictly from Nowhere linkup.

Laura topping out with Dominic Albanese belaying away.

Finishing up the final pitch

Trending up and to the right at the start of P2

Joel Ryan topping out Shockley's.

Of course, it wasn't entirely over. Here she approaches the second roof, which some find more difficult than the first. (But not Crystal--she cruised it.)

Some good exposure, although you don't notice it when doing this move, since you can't even see your feet, let alone the hairpin turn.

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