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Franconia Notch Bouldering

Original Post
Rock Cricket · · Norfolk, CT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 30

I was thumbing through the first edition of John Sherman's Better Bouldering and noticed a problem on pg. 42 in Franconia Notch called "The Torcher".

The Torcher Franconia Notch, NH

I was wondering if anyone knew where this problem was. It looks super classic and I'd love to get on it sometime. Also, is there a bunch of bouldering in the notch? I've climbed with ropes out there but have never heard of anyone bouldering (other than this photo). I couldn't find anything with a Google search. Tons of talus below Cannon, it seems there must be some good stuff.

Thanks for any info.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

There is quite a bit of bouldering all over the Notch... some hidden and some not
Secrets of the Notch (i think new edition) is coming out.
by- jamie Cunnungham/Jon Syckes

keohan68 · · Landaff,NH · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 65

This is a topic I'm also interested in, so I would like to stretch the question into Kinsman Notch also.

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

There's a ton of bouldering in the Whites and very little of it has made it on to MP. This omission includes the obvious, very accessible boulders beneath Cathedral.

I'm not much of boulderer myself but I definitely encourage people to post up boulders. The bouldering in the area is probably as good as any place in New England. And there has to be some way to hurt yourself on a rest day.

Jim

johnthethird · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

In the current (2008) Secrets of the notch, there is mention of 'several good problems' at the bouldering wall on Echo crag. Thats all the mention I found of bouldering in the book. No listed problems, though.

Rock Cricket · · Norfolk, CT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 30

I can't wait to get out there and check out the blocks. Also psyched to get on Cannon.

Jonathan S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,113

For what it's worth I'd encourage people not to post it up. Just go talk to the boys at IME.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

An obvious problem at Cannon is on the approach to the right side slabs area. Nice block with a couple of problems including a finger crack.

Many problems lie along and just off the bike trail that follows the road. Another area is down by the Flume.

I have not been, but Kinsman has a lot as well.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
steitz wrote:For what it's worth I'd encourage people not to post it up. Just go talk to the boys at IME.
I'd encourage both actually... no reason not to add boulders to the site, esp if they are on public land. That is unless you have a problem sharing I guess...

There's a few problems in the parking lot for the Glen Boulder as well as some sweet lines we put up on the Glen Boulder. Mahoosuc notch is just loaded with boulders...
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The future of NH bouldering lies in the alpine areas.... huntington, King.. etc

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882
steitz wrote:For what it's worth I'd encourage people not to post it up. Just go talk to the boys at IME.
I'm curious-- why should MP readers be discouraged from posting stuff up on MP?

Jim
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Right.. I spent a good part of my life talking to "the boys" at IME.. it usually got me nowhere.

I wasn't a "local"

patrick donahue · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 493
john strand wrote:There is quite a bit of bouldering all over the Notch... some hidden and some not Secrets of the Notch (i think new edition) is coming out. by- jamie Cunnungham/Jon Syckes
Do you know exactly when their guide book is coming out? i know they used to have a webpage but i cant find it any more.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I would check with Jamie Cunningham. i don't think he's on MP but is on NEClimbs

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036

I've seen that photo before, and I've wondered about that problem as well. I posted a question on my FB page. Maybe someone know something about it. If I find out, I'll post here.

And to whoever said that the "boys at IME" are a better source for bouldering info: That statement is both unrefined (women work there as well) and incorrect.

keohan68 · · Landaff,NH · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 65

Alright so I drive through "The Notch" a few times a week, and I think this boulder is right off the road across from the lake. The next time I get a chance I will stop and take a closer look.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036

I got word that the boulder is on the approach to Lakeview. That's all I know, and I haven't gotten a chance to check it out myself yet.

Evan Lissav · · Nashua, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 220

Anyone ever find The Torcher? Stumbled on this old post but no follow up. I am very interested in this problem, looks amazing!

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

I live in No Conway and have been scouring everywhere for boulder problems. They are not as abundant as you think-- Very steep terrain, bad landings, lots of growth and lichen, etc. So as far as a bunch of obvious stuff near cathedral, whitehorse, and humphrey's it's not quite the right scenario.

Kind of ironic considering the amount of cliff climbing around. But then again how does Pawtuckaway end up so perfect out in the middle of nowhere?

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Russ,

Pawtuckaway isn't middle of nowhere if you live in southern NH. I'll trade with you!

Mark

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

There is definitely good bouldering in Kinsman. I haven't climbed any yet, but I went for an exploratory hike a couple months ago in the rain. On this map I parked near where it says Borrow Pit and cut in to the woods on the north side of the road and up the hillside just south of where the Lost River crosses under the road. I then headed north and made an arch to the east to drop into the notch below the visible rock. The notch is full of giant scree of really good quality rock. There is certainly good stuff to be had there, but you have to figure out your padding etc. I would like to have explored this area more, but I was running out of light and the storm was getting really heavy. I then headed down the notch kind of SE and then south and ran into a trail, which I followed back to the river. Along this trail I noticed several good boulders and a ledge that had obviously been climbed on. In low water I think the trail went across the river and up to the road, but by now it was very flooded so I had to follow the bank back down to where I had left the road. It was dark when I got to the road so I didn't get to go look for the trailhead.

The initial hike up didn't reveal anything noteworthy until I got into the notch, so the obvious thing to do is go back and find the start of the trail and have a look. Unfortunately the rain killed my camera so I don't have any photos to share.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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