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Best crampon fit for LS Nepal Evos? How about the Spantiks?

Original Post
Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70

Looking to upgrade my crampons, and don't have convenient access to a store where I can test the fit of a bunch of different sets. In your experience, which crampons fit the Nepal Evo the best? How about the Spantiks? I'm not interested in momo-point only crampons either. Thanks!

Edit: any beta regarding Grivel crampons? I'm impressed with the company, but don't what they design for steep ice that fits well with the above boots. How about the G14?

Luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,069

I have both of these boots and I find that the Petzl Lynx fits them both well. They are kinda pricey but have the ability to run mono or dual points and come with anti-bots, a bag and a strap on toe bail in addition to a regular step in toe bail.

Mike Hasse · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 365

I personally prefer Cyborgs over the Lynx's with my Nepal Evos. In my size (42.5), the front piece on the Lynx is a little too large, i.e. either the front points extend too far past the toe of my boot, or the fourth set of points extends well into the arch of the boot, making walking a challenge. Also, the heel portion of the Lynx's doesn't fit the heel on my Nepals very well.

The worst problem I've encountered with the Cyborgs is the front toe bail, which is pretty wide. Setting the crampons super tight tends to avoid any scary shifting while climbing, but I can't say what it does for the long term life of the boot. The best option I've found recently is to use the Lynx toe bails on the Cyborgs, and that seems to eliminate all the problems. I believe Dane has suggested something similar in the past.

Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70

Great reply. I think I wear the same size boots too.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

I have Napal EVO with Grivle G14 running duel point.
I find that the G14 Fit extreamly well. Bettern than my Cyborgs. The cyborgs dont fit the heal as well and the toe bail on my tiny boot are matched better for the G14s.

Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70

Jeff--what size boot you wearing?

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

I have Nepals and Spantiks. BD crampons, both the Cyborg and Sabretooth fit very well. I wear a 47 and had to get the long center bar.

Edit to add: The long center bar was necessary for the Spantiks. The 'pons fit the Nepals with the standard center bar.

JonBates · · cody, wy · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 100

I've run grivel g14's, g12's, and rambo's on my nepal evos(size 44.5) with absolutely no problems. On the g14's I made sure that I sized the crampon correctly, as in it would almost stay on without the heel bail. Then just fine tune the heel bail with the spinning adjuster on the top of the lever. No experience with the spantiks, but they fit my omegas great as well. Grivel's are bombproof!

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Eric G. wrote:Jeff--what size boot you wearing?

My boots are a EU 40 = mens 8
Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Rambos with nepal evo looks like a great combo

Jim Sweeney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 30

Eric,

Here's an article on crampon fit. Crampon Fit on Coldthistle
There are also other articles on specific boot/crampon combos if you want to root them out.
Perhaps you could stop by the Mountaineer when you're in the Daks for a fitup.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

I own both, nepals in a 46, spantik in a 46.5

G14s fit like a dream. Had to get the long bar to fit the spantiks, but chopped it so it will work on both boots. My buddy runs BDs, cyborgs and saber, and they are wide up front on the same boots. His feet are a few sizes smaller than mine.

Ali Jaffri · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 695

I have used both the new style with the front rubber strap and the old style Black Diamond Sabretooths with the front bail with my Spantiks. The strap-style combo is the worst Ive ever had with any boot-crampon combo, when you kick, your toe will hit the ice A LOT instead of your front points.

The combo with Spantik and Sabretooth with front bail works perfectly.

Cale Hoopes · · Sammamish, WA · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

+1 for Lynx. Sleek and climb awesome.

Just Solo · · Colorado Springs · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 80

Another vote for Sabertooths. Great all around crampon, can climb pretty much anything with those...

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

Try on the three main brands. The small size of your boots will be the biggest fit issue. I'd bet Grivel will fit best because of the heel piece.

The Ex-Engineer · · UK · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20

I have Nepals in a 43 and have recently fitted both Grivel AirTech with cramp-o-matic bindings and Grivel G20s. In both cases I got an extremely good fit (so good I need to use my axe pick to lever them back off again!) but that was after 2-3 hours of adjustment and trying numerous variations.

I didn't find either Grivel front bale design offered a perfect fit and I ended up offsetting the front bail in both cases to improve matters somewhat. I could easily believe that Petzl front bales could fit better.

I have previously used G12s with newmatic bindings and found them a superb fit.

It is not a first hand opinion but the G14 design does not inspire me and in a straight comparison I think the Petzl Lynx looks a better option, both in terms of weight and the ability to use them, if needed, on more flexible boots.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562
Just Solo wrote:Another vote for Sabertooths. Great all around crampon, can climb pretty much anything with those...
If the BD stainless will stay in one piece. It has a continued (from inception to date) habit of failing. Try an internet search for the details.

Boot size make a huge difference on how any of the crampons fit. With smaller boots a Grivel crampon and the Petzl front bale is usually a winner.
Erik Eriksson · · Colville, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 126

old style sabretooths with spantiks

Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70

Thanks everybody. I'll let you know how it turns out.

M Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 125

The Grivel g20 and the g14 fit perfectly with Nepals. If your boot is a size 47 or larger you might want the long bar attachment.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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