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any help with my pride?

Dan W. · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 5

@JQ I was sad because i was humbled on something that i "should" have done with my eyes closed, and because i let myself get into that situation. I have never left anything, i suppose i could blame my tools all day long, but what i have learned is at the end of the day it is no ones fault but the mechanic. Your comment was incredibly insightful, Thank you for that.

@John D I can only hope my gear gets saved by some dirt bag that needs it. I have found my fair share of booty, and as sad as it is admitting it i suppose this is my time to give back....

I am climbing nothing but scary slabs for the next month, i think i have proven most can jug haul up a 5.11, but not everyone can climb featureless slab.

as a side note i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like...

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410
Greg McKee wrote:John D: "We immediately knew which climb we were doing first :) I still have my draw and smile when I clip it." That is incredibly bad climbing ethics. Furthermore, it is very bad/dangerous karma to climb on stolen climbing equipment. If you didn't earn it in a responsible/honest manner then you should think twice about clipping into that sucker. 'what goes around, comes around'
You know karma isn't real right? Society works better when we are all kind to each other, but there isn't a dangerous hex on those draws now. Give me a break.

I've got almost a whole trad rack of left gear just waiting to kill me. You might want to get out more if you think that is bad ethics...
R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Next time your in Red Rocks This thing will help school you-

Panty Mime 5.10c, @ Panty wall

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

^^^ that thing is HARD for 5.10...harder than some of the Tuolumne slabs of the same grade I've climbed. Stout but fun

Robert Fielding · · Thousand Oaks, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 195

That can't be... everything at Red Rocks is soft! :)

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Clearly, well shit. If it's rated 10c or d in the guidebook, 5.9+ is fair...right?

WilliamButierez · · Tucson, Az · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 20

My pride is hurt for you dan! I can't believe I call you my partner... don't worry we all forget and make mistakes. I forgot my testarosas on lemmon on sunday at the base of R-4...

Dan W. · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 5

HAHA, I was out at Panty wall and saw this

Panty Mime 5.10c, @ Panty wal

It looks intense!

@Willbutts you are my slab master friend, sounds like i need to drag you out there!

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025
Ddub979 wrote:On 2/10 I was out climbing in sand stone quarry. I was able to get in a few proud 11 red point leads but on the hike out we decided to do... mountainproject.com/v/frict… Friction face panty waist.... Wow I got my ass kicked. Guess I need to learn slab. Any way it got way too late and way too cold, I was being a little girl and bailed. I left a bail Binner and three brand spanking new drawls.... Ugh so sad. I know this is a crazy long shot but if any one grabs them I'll happily Reimburse you for your troublea and mailing cost.
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Friction Face is a little serious. I got a pretty good idea from your post where you backed off. You were likely wise to back off. Only a bail biner would have been required. And ease off on the slurs. Don't whine about your abandoned gear. It's immature.

Maybe you'll get lucky but I wouldn't hold my breath.

No karma involved...a good portion of my rack is booty. I know my partners don't want to know that. Same for a lot a other Vegas locals. When I was a Valley Rat we ran circuits Mondays and Tuesdays. Ha! totally shameless!
Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

" i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like."
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hard 5.11 slab is very delicate; vertical or close to vertical.

On a less than 10 ton psyche day you will feel like you are gonna pitch every moment and on every move. On a good day it won't even feel like the same climb.

On You Tube you could watch Tommy Caldwell on thin slab. Or Lynn Hill lead "Changing Corners"

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.

Skat B · · Down Rodeo · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,075

What I usually do with unclaimed gear is make perma draws on sport routes and leave the bail biners on the webbing anchors of trad routes.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410
Greg McKee wrote:John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.
Your karma sounds real just. Someone completely unrelated to what you call theft dies because of his friends supposed unethical behaviour?? That seems equitable. Death penalty to your friends if you take booty!

Your cosmic fairness seems pretty unfair, wouldn't you agree?
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Slab is a great equalizer because it requires technique more than strength and lots of people have a tendency to get the latter without investing any time on obtaining the former. For many, it is an epiphany that being a well rounded climber means much more than just going to the gym and clipping sport routes on the weekends.

I remember a conversation I overheard a long time ago in Camp 4 where some guy was talking to a friend about a number of hard offwidths he climbed. This was BITD where there wasn't alot of wide gear to sew it up like is available now, so you had to know your stuff if you were going to send.

So anyways, to paraphrase, his friend says 'wow, how do you climb all those hard o/ws?' and he replies, 'it's technique. imagine how hard climbing a hand crack would be if you didn't know how to hand jam.' Face climbing is the same way. If you never do it, it's going to feel hard. Do it enough and it'll get way easier.

pfwein Weinberg · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 71
Thomas Beck wrote:" i wonder what the hell 5.13 slab would even look like." ---------------------------------- hard 5.11 slab is very delicate; vertical or close to vertical. On a less than 10 ton psyche day you will feel like you are gonna pitch every moment and on every move.
Agree it's delicate, don't agree hard 5.11 slab is necessarily vertical or close to vertical. For example, I've had my ass handed to me on 5.11 slab boulder problems at Mt. Woodson that are way less less than vert. And while I'm no slab master, I don't particularly suck at them either.
At some level (maybe hard 5.12, depends on the rock I guess), super hard "slab" will be close to vertical. When the rock is more featured (edges), hard slab will be steeper.
Nick Zmyewski · · Newark, DE · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 250
Greg McKee wrote:John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.
I've found plenty of gear on routes that people have left behind. If people leave gear on a climb, except for special circumstances and perma-draws, it's fair game.
Also, the gear isn't more likely to fail just because he found it and you call it unethical. If he lets a climbing partner use the gear and they don't inquire about its history, then that's their responsibility and decision to trust him. Everyone is responsible for themselves at the end of the day.
Sarita Mendez · · Tucson · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

Anyway, that chick sounds hot

John D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 10
Greg McKee wrote:John D - If you're not worried about it take all the run outs you want above it and pray it holds for you even though it isn't fundamentally yours. Have a little integrity and don't let your climbing partners use it. Because if shit goes bad, that blood is on your hands for climbing on unethical equipment.
hahaha, that's awesome! I'll be praying that my ethics don't mess up physics, though I kind of wish it could, I'd probably have done better in those philosophy classes in college.
Jon OBrien · · Nevada · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 917

try sumo greatness...

Lee M. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 5
Ddub979 wrote:I was being a little girl and bailed
Hope this helps your pride.

11-Year-Old Girl Shatters Climbing Records
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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