The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Well shit Paul, I stand corrected, sorry. Would not have guessed that with the super dry weather and what I saw last week in Glen Cove. Any of you TA climbers get a picture by any chance?

Vail Conditions update:
-Spiral Staircase is very picked/stepped out and sporting one third the volume of ice it sees in normal years. I would not walk up for this climb alone.
-Secret probation is thin too. Definitely more challenging than previous years.
-The pencil is fat and picked/kicked.
-The Eraser has very thin ground contact and would be better approaching from Quasimoto.
-The Dezi is in good shape. The donkey trail on the left has seen a few periods of drip and fresh ice. The right side is very continuous and only mildly picked/kicked.
-The 7th tenticle is in the best condition of any amphitheater ice. Full conditions.

In general, the ice in Vail is way below baseline. There's no ice on Amphibian, Fatman and Robin is at about half length and cupcake corner is mixier than ever. On the brightside, it is snowing today and the Fang is making a move.

Always optimistic,
Jonathan

phil wortmann wrote:Total Abandon looked pretty thick as of last weekend. The hike up Barr is huge, about 25miles RT. I've climbed TA from the Crags and it's not bad. About 5 miles each way.

Yes England, ive been up there a time or two. I was responding to Paul's question. You still have to do the hero when approaching from the Crags. The road isn't always open, and it allows for a bigger training day.

Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road lately? Is there a little more ice forming on Skylight?
THX

Is anyone else thinking that with all of the snow and cold temps they've been getting in the high country over the last week things will fatten up a bit again?

Hopefully heading out tomorrow, just not sure to what. I'll be sure to report anything good!

Climbed skylight on 2/01/13. First pitch was good. No need to lay back on the chock stone as the ice formed over the crack.
Second pitch ended right below the rock bulge so a v thread
Was needed for rap. Pretty tight climbing at the top. Swings were restricted by the chimney. Great fun though!
All other climbs in that area were very wet and it was cold.

Tony T. wrote:Is anyone else thinking that with all of the snow and cold temps they've been getting in the high country over the last week things will fatten up a bit again? Hopefully heading out tomorrow, just not sure to what. I'll be sure to report anything good!

I know this is more of a "conditions" thread, but figured I'd try posting this here.

Looking for a regular ice climbing partner in Summit County. I have my own rope and some gear to set up top ropes. Can also lead belay and then follow. I live in Keystone and have my own vehicle so short trips are also an option. PM if interested.

Thanks,

Arik

Conditions on Martha???? Anyone been up recently, dry..mixed..snow..ice?

Thanks,

Seth

Does any one know conditions on the flying dutchman or conditions on northwest face of thatchtop?

The flying dutchman is in shape, however I have been waiting for the avy danger to decrease a little to get on it and it should be in all spring. Martha as of a couple weeks ago was pure rock, no ice. Though these recent snows may have created more.

I'll be doing a last minute trip into cody for the fest, anyone have any azy hazzard beta paired route reccomendations for once I get there, looking for WI3-4 multi, the more pitches the better.

Honestly I haven't been paying attention to recent snow up there (though I know they've gotten some), but it typically takes a LOT of snow in a short period of time to create significant avy danger in the South Fork - it does happen on occasion though. Mostly it blows away or melts. Just ask around the 'Fest and the locals will give you the scoop. For long 3-4 ish routes...Mean Green, High on Boulder, Spyin and Flying, Main Vein (probably have to walk around the first pitch which can be a bit tricky, Cabin Fever + Wyoming Wave, Schoolhouse Route, Triptych drainage, Smooth Emerald Milkshake (probably the best chance for avy danger). It's up to you to assess any slide danger for yourself though. Generally the approaches and walking between pitches is enough for you to get a sense for how much snow is there and what it's like. I'm sure you already know that Colorado or Utah 3-4 is generally easier than Cody 3-4. coldfear.com has conditions, ratings and route lengths.

Many thanks Kevin, contatced the fest staff and sounds like avy hazzard is low as usual, and I wasn't aware of the sandbagged nature of the routes up there so that is something I definitely appreciate knowning before getting on the routes. at the same time it makes me that much more excited to go explore up there, not going to lie I've been feeling Utah 3's are pretty soft.... cheers!

Scott:

Avy hazard is generally pretty low due in Cody (rarely much snow on the ground), but be aware of considerable rock fall danger at the base of a lot of pitches, particularly if it's very windy or sunny on the benches above you. Try not to get geared up in exposed areas (judge by the amount of rock on the ground and pick a safe(r) spot).

Also keep an eye out for rocks coming down while climbing pitches (ask your belayer to pay attention and give warnings).
Rock fall can be particularly bad at the base of the fist pitch of Mean Green for example.

Re. the sandbagged reputation of the area: I think it is more the facts that there is relatively little traffic on most routes and that nighttime temperatures can be very low. This makes for hard, brittle, and virgin ice a lot of the time. No Ouray-style hooking here, but real, old-fashioned ice climbing!

Oh, and be bear- and moose-aware on the approaches... ;-)
Have fun! The North Fork is a very special place.

no way cody is sandbagged. this is totally the same grade 4 as spiral staircase:

Dang! MG is thin this year. Yeah, I've had friends insist that pitch is 5 after following it, even in fatter conditions. Just have to know where you're climbing (rock or ice)! As an update, I just saw a photo of the South Fork from today, and I'd say the avy danger is about as low as it gets. Get after it and have fun!

Just a heads up, Rigid Designator no has two horizontal fractures, one at 1/2 height and one at 2/3rd height. May heal up by tomorrow, may not. Be careful.

I left two BD wiregates at the top of silverplume falls, if you happen upon them just leave em be I will be back in the area soon-ish.