steroids and climbing?

PEDs include many drugs besides the testosterone based families of drugs commonly called "steroids". If you read the list of banned drugs for sport listed by WADA etc - I think you would find most of you are already guilty of using some kind of drug that would get you tossed if you were in the Olympics.

Chris Miller wrote:Corticosteroids are not the same as anabolic steroids. Corticosteroids are usually used for their powerful anti-imflammatory or immune suppressive effect . So maybe they would help with soreness short term, but long term there is evidence to suggest they have an ill effect on connective tissue. Besides that, long term use of corticosteroids makes you fat. Google Cushing's Syndrome. Frankly, I DON'T even think cortisone shots are a good idea for the elbow pain many of us get.

No shit. Seems like a good product for use in a multi-day comp don't ya think? Ill effects on connective tissue is based on long-term use delivered through injections or orally, not topical treatment. Not too many fat pro cyclists using it, are there?

JoeP wrote: No shit. Seems like a good product for use in a multi-day comp don't ya think?

Yeah, maybe.

Chris Rice wrote:PEDs include many drugs besides the testosterone based families of drugs commonly called "steroids". If you read the list of banned drugs for sport listed by WADA etc - I think you would find most of you are already guilty of using some kind of drug that would get you tossed if you were in the Olympics.

That's interesting. So I guess if you're a diabetic or have high blood pressure you're shit out of luck.

Ryan Palo wrote:Aerili, I tend to come these enduro routes running huge deficits. Most of the high end lines are just that, endurance (well actually power endurance). I find that being able to effectively manage your heart rate at rests and on route is key. I would agree with you otherwise, but since we're talking about high end climbing and not your standard 1-2 crux adventure, I think EPO would be key.

Nope. Still do not believe enduro routes even remotely tax the aerobic system in the manner that running, cycling, Nordic skiing, or slogging up a mountain do (and which EPO would help). I pretty much guarantee you are not having a problem with lacking O2 cells to supply your body on technical routes regardless of the grade.

High heart rate is a sign of anaerobia, actually. When your heart rate spikes and you're trying to catch your breath, you're far more anaerobic and O2 is not an issue.

kenr pretty much reiterates this if you read his post above.

Aerili, thanks for the input. I was under the impression that kind of PED helped raise the anaerobic threshold. Im going to quit seeing that guy behind GNC.

Here's a list of some other PEDs that might be of use:
-Miralax
-coffee
-phentermine
-cigarettes
-adderall

Ryan Palo wrote:Aerili, thanks for the input. I was under the impression that kind of PED helped raise the anaerobic threshold. Im going to quit seeing that guy behind GNC. Here's a list of some other PEDs that might be of use: -Miralax -coffee -phentermine -cigarettes -adderall

I bet Sharma could break 5.16 with that stack. But you better keep that shit away from Ondra, he's got an anger management problem.

Chris Miller wrote: I bet Sharma could break 5.16 with that stack. But you better keep that shit away from Ondra, he's got an anger management problem.

Oh dear god.

Adam Ondra + Steroids = 5.16b + Epic pterodactyl shrieking roid rage

Ryan Palo wrote:Aerili, thanks for the input. I was under the impression that kind of PED helped raise the anaerobic threshold. Im going to quit seeing that guy behind GNC. Here's a list of some other PEDs that might be of use: -Miralax -coffee -phentermine -cigarettes -adderall

Certain performance enhancing drugs probably do raise anaerobic threshold. I just don't think EPO is one of them. I guess it is possible, but even if it did, I think there is a particular problem about it for climbers and that is: EPO would cause increased blood viscosity eventually and for a route climber that would probably = getting pumped more easily and more quickly. More blood cells trying to get through the same amount of capillaries in other words.

agree with aerili. i don't think EPO would really help, as it isn't the availability of O2, but rather the highways in your arms are sort of a traffic jam. plenty of O2, just can't get it there.

i think the PED's that speed up recovery time would be helpful. at my age, i really need 2 full days of rest to recover from a hard workout, but that isn't conducive with the weekend warrior schedule (at least not if you want to have 2 workouts during the week).

Maybe there is some steroid use in the European comp climbing scene, or in the gym scene. I think most climbers are too concerned about climbing long term to want to use steroids. For someone like Honnold, I'm sure he wants to climb his whole life, why risk your long term health to use steroids.

Plus, is using steroids going to give you a good lead head? I don't think so. There is so much that they don't do that is key to climbing.

Chris Miller wrote: That's interesting. So I guess if you're a diabetic or have high blood pressure you're shit out of luck.

It's worth while to read through the banned list of substances - especially if you look at all the different sports and what's banned there. Most of us are guilty of PED use at one time or another. Don't think climbers could benefit - you definitely need to read up some more.

Folks keep bringing up Honnold. The thing with Honnold is that the most amazing part of how he climbs has to do with his brain, not his body. I don't know of any PED's that can improve mental discipline (well, maybe a little LSD now and then).

Can you imagine standing on the Thank God Ledge tripping balls? I can barely handle the grocery store.

Chris Rice wrote: It's worth while to read through the banned list of substances - especially if you look at all the different sports and what's banned there. Most of us are guilty of PED use at one time or another. Don't think climbers could benefit - you definitely need to read up some more.

Sarcasm

HGH would be pretty effective, especially in recovering from tendon injuries. Ask all those NFL players that use it to rehab from ACL/MCL injuries.

Kind of surprised no ones mentioned the film
Bigger, Stronger, Faster by Chris Bell.

It's a very interesting look at steroid use in sports and brings up some great cultural criticisms as to why PED's in general are so popular.

One thing I like about the MP community is that most folks will do their homework when it comes to a topic. There's so much speculation and lack of fact in this thread it's mind boggling.

The EPO topic is particularly laughable. If anyone actually looked into what goes into running a cycle of EPO for performance gains they'd realize how expensive and sketchy EPO use is.
Just check out the drug info insert that comes in an EPO kit. The medical community will essentially only give EPO to a patient as a last ditch effort to save them.

I'd be curious to know how many people have actual first hand experience w/ using Test or GH and aren't just posting something they heard from someone or read about online. I'll even include "legal" off the shelf Testosterone Pre-Cursors.
Just Say'n,
BA

EPO could be useful in the deathzone. potentially.

I mean If you really wanted to cheat at climbing 8000m mountains without supplemental 02.

prob not worth the risk.

Why is this still a topic/concern? Pro-athletes are there for entertainment in my eyes. I get much more psyched about finding an opportunity to climb in the kick ass areas they get to climb at.

How many of us really think we're going to crush 5.14-5.15 or V15 or V-whatever-the-fuck people crush these days. I look up to my climbing friends that push me to climb as hard as I can or heckle the shit outta me.

On a side note, Ondra has some serious roid rage, haha

William Domhart wrote:Why is this still a topic/concern? Pro-athletes are there for entertainment in my eyes. I get much more psyched about finding an opportunity to climb in the kick ass areas they get to climb at. How many of us really think we're going to crush 5.14-5.15 or V15 or V-whatever-the-fuck people crush these days. I look up to my climbing friends that push me to climb as hard as I can or heckle the shit outta me.

+1, so true.