The best cracks of the north east
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Jonathan Clark wrote:Southern Hospitality @ Poke-O White Knight @ Spider's Web It's Only Entertainment @ Spider's Web Pretty much all of Spider's WebAll awesome recommendations. As long as we're talking Poko, we'll need to toss in Amongst the Crowds and Macho, too. |
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That picture of Hot Seat reminded me of this one of Lumberjack Crack at Found Ledge, NH 60ft and a little easier at 11c. |
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Lumberjack Crack looks pretty sweet. Hot Seat is much more slabby. Hot Seat is 100', at half height it turns into an off-width after a small roof. I believe the consensus is .11d. |
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David Powers wrote:Lumberjack Crack looks pretty sweet. Hot Seat is much more slabby. Hot Seat is 100', at half height it turns into an off-width after a small roof. I believe the consensus is .11d. I feel like i have been to quite a variety of crags around new England. Sad to say i have yet to even see the Rose and The Thorn. The Rose looks ultra classic. The Cracks Mark mentioned at Greens are some of the best i have done due to their length and setting.Hey Dave, Funny, I was just thinking how I need to get up your way and check out Hot Seat. Let us know if you ever come down here. We'll show you around. Cheers, Derek |
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Thanks for the correction, Dave. I edited my post. |
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I can't believe that no one has mentioned "They Died Laughing" at Cathedral. Sure, the location is not ideal as some of the other stuff on this list. But in terms of awesome jamming, protection reliability, and ease of access, its one of my favorite 5.9's anywhere! |
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Women may be the best multi pich climb on the crag.esp with the Wild start.. the face crux is pretty tough |
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This line is out of my range but is a beautiful line to look at and sees little to no action. |
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David Powers wrote:Hot Seat in Hell at Wheeler Mt. will knock your socks off. A bit hard to find though.That's a fact, David! Love that route and it's neighbor, "Eagle Point Crack". And to reiterate what Derek D. said about the Vermont cracks...all great routes, and worth the visit if in the area. Gunks--Resistance, Persistence, Lost City Crack, Ants' Line, and Ken's Crack. Green Mt. Breakdown, Old Town, and that really great 5.9 to the left of Wafer Step...can't recall the name. All at the Precipice, Acadia. |
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5.9 left of Wafer Step? Is that Recollections of Pacifica? |
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S. Neoh wrote:5.9 left of Wafer Step? Is that Recollections of Pacifica? I have never been on Pacifica but I have been on Return To Forever and it is great. Connecticut Cracks is good too, though not one continuous crack.Yeah, Pacifca. I wouldn't really call Pacifica a crack climb. Yeah, it has a crack at the start, but the crux is on the slabby part up above. |
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Re: Jim Lawyer, Release the Kraken @ Pinnacle |
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Really short 30ft or so at lookout rock 3-4" wide over hanging. 45 degre left leaning 5.11 I believe |
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Old Town and They Died laughing are both great. Good suggestions. I am sure we are missing a lot of the obvious ones. |
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Gotta represent MA a little more - Jane, Cro-Mag and Intertwine at Crow - although you can face climb a lot on all those. Yosemite and Barndoor at Farley. |
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MaxSuffering wrote:Adirondacks: Drop, Fly or Die On The Loose TR Fear And loathing in Keene Valley Tequila mockingbird Arachnid Traction Coy Dog Tennessee Excursion Forever Wild Fastest Gun (pitches 1, 2 + 4) Fear Of Touching Aerie (AKA: the Moss Cliff Linkup) Mystery Achievement WindjammerThat is a great starter list of classic ADK cracks. NH locals may protest this, but I think that the Dacks have the best collection and concentration of crack climbs in the Northeast. A few more favorite ADK crack climbs. Butterflies are Free to Partition; Washbowl Cliff. Best 5.9 linkup around, 2 pitches. First pitch has nice 5.9 hand crack, 2nd pitch is amazing 5.8+ handcrack in a huge dihedral. Octoberfist (5.10+), Upper Tiers, Poko Way-obscure due to location, but superb. Not too tall (60 feet?) but sustained and steep. Crux is a green Camalot section in a slight bulge. White Knight (12a) Spiders Web Soooooo good. Basically everything else at the Web deserves to be at the top of this list as well. |
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A few more: |