V thread tools

Any strong feelings about one versus another? I am new to ice climbing, I am probably just going to buy the BD first shot, but I hear people just use coat hangers etc. Does this work well? Does the aligning tool of the First Shot actually help?

I assume this has been discussed in another thread before, but after a bit of searching, I couldn't find it. Feel free to direct me to a thread if you know of one.

a wire coat hanger bent into the right shape works very well. First shots are stupid/ a tool for people who failed preschool geometry. Practice lining up your screws a few times and you'll never need a first shot.

J-Snare

Ditto regarding the coat hanger. A wire coat hanger with the end cut at an acute angle and bent is perfect. The acute angle cut makes the end snag the V- thread cord every time. Graham is right on regarding the First Shot......a gimmick for a geometrically challenged. Getting two holes to intersect isn't rocket science.

If you're just starting out, the First Shot is probably a good purchase. Guarantees maximal depth V-threads and as you use it, you'll get a good idea for placement/angle to drill your own without the guide. I used one for about a year when it first came out (even though I'd been ice climbing for years and drilled hundreds of V-threads) and liked it. I eventually quit using it as it was just too bulky and the metal from which the hook is made was not very durable. It is the best way to guarantee a maximum-strength V-thread however.

I use a cable-based V-thread tool that I purchased in Canada years ago, but many folks use coat-hanger based tools to good effect. The Grivel "Candella" is also pretty good and several of my partners use that.

I'm not super keen on the J-Snare mentioned above as it always seem to require 3 hands to use and I only have the standard 2.

Graham Johnson wrote:a wire coat hanger bent into the right shape works very well. First shots are stupid/ a tool for people who failed preschool geometry. Practice lining up your screws a few times and you'll never need a first shot.

+1

get the standard petzl v threat tool. your not an idiot so you dont need the first shot. plus, (even though its not designed for this) its the best nut tool on the market, i use it All year round.
P.S. coat hangars break when its cold

I live in Gunnison, Co which is historicly one of the coldest places in the lower 48. I use a coat hanger and have for years, never had one break. the first shot is the stupidest, most assinine, useless piece of gear I have ever attempted to use. Id rather buy hand jammies than buy one of those things.

clay meier wrote:I live in Gunnison, Co which is historicly one of the coldest places in the lower 48. I use a coat hanger and have for years, never had one break. the first shot is the stupidest, most assinine, useless piece of gear I have ever attempted to use. Id rather buy hand jammies than buy one of those things.

Hand jammies? For real Clay? Getting soft in your old age, huh. What, are you going to start taping too? Just kidding, bud.

Clay made some seriously cool v-thread tools. All decked out with rope sheaths and stuff so nothing snagged. You should post some pics if you get a chance,

If you feel like wasting money, go ahead and buy a v-thread tool. Maybe if you plan on v-threading a whole bunch it might be a good idea but I feel like in Colorado you can pretty much get by without a v-thread tool. A coat hanger works great to bring a long just in case.

I have 2 different gizmos - one with a fishhook end and some new thing with no pointy end that snares the cord or webbing in a loop- both are cool but i almost never use them - The one time I had to build V- threads as there was no other option to get down- I didnt have a V- Threader with me so I just used the wire end of a large stopper- that works well in a pinch and in the alpine you almost always have one with you.

The candelera(?) by grivel is my favorite. Fits snugly in a 22cm screw and has a little blade to cut cordalette for v threads. Real flexible plastic. Never had a problem with mine. It also works great for clearing stubborn ice in screws.

I made one out of a bicycle spoke. Bent one end at about a120 degree angle and sharpened it and bent the othe end over its self and used a dog collar key chain (more heavy duty then a regular key chain) so it fits on a beiner. Used a vacuum seal from a carburetor to cover the sharp end. Don't want to hurt your self or your $200 pants.

I have had the same "coat hanger" tool for 20 years and have built 100's of V-threads with it-- works great. Get a heavy duty coat hanger from a dry cleaner. Measure it so it fits inside of a 22 cm screw. Put a loop on one end and a 1/4" hook on the other and you are set. Go some where for an afternoon with looks of ice and practice making A threads and V threads and you will get the hang of it.

Sounds like I will just make one. Josh, I like the idea of using a bicycle spoke, get a large diameter one and it should be pretty sturdy.

Graham Johnson wrote:a First shots are stupid/ a tool for people who failed preschool geometry.

I did pass geometery with flying colors, so i assume I'll be fine with out the first shot. However, I did not manage to do so in preschool. We just did 10 piece puzzles, that must've been one of those high dollar preschools.

Sunny-D wrote:I have had the same "coat hanger" tool for 20 years and have built 100's of V-threads with it-- works great. Get a heavy duty coat hanger from a dry cleaner. Measure it so it fits inside of a 22 cm screw. Put a loop on one end and a 1/4" hook on the other and you are set. Go some where for an afternoon with looks of ice and practice making A threads and V threads and you will get the hang of it.

just for clarification, A-threads and V-threads are the same thing...

A = Abalakov. Named after its inventor Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov

V = its shape, as in, the shape of an A thread

And yeah, coat hanger +1

You are right, Dylan that V and A threads are the same thing, but people often use A-thread to refer to vertically oriented V-threads (as in the holes are one above the other instead of side by side). I'm going to guess that's how Sunny D is using it here

Graham, Yes you are right... V for Horizontal Holes and A for Vertical holes. Basically the same thing. I have been reading though that the A threads (vertical holes) are stronger... Anyone care to chime in that has done testing or that is in the know?

If you really want to go all out get a Dewalt cordless drill and a 1 inch by 2 ft spade bit and carry that, it makes great V threads... Just make sure you have a longer (2+ ft) coat hanger threader to pull your cord or webbing with.

And no I don't carry a Dewalt cordless drill climbing. I did however use this method for building 60+ anchors for an Ice Festival here in Utah several years ago. Two 2 ft deep V threads equalized makes one hell of a top rope anchor. It also gives you tons of practice building V threads. I did them all the night before the festival started. Great Fun.
Dallen

One minor trick to help with the low cost version: make the outside end bent into a tight loop, bend the rest of it gently into a big loop, hook the sharp end into the tight loop, clip it on a biner. Stable protection to avoid hooking it on you or your gear.

Recently picked up the candela. Was running the coat-hanger for a bit, until I had the hook break off at the worst possible time.

I used a hooked bicycle spoke for awhile, but it was too long and got in the way so I developed a retractable device using the 2mm stainless spoke wire. I put them on a website for sale at the suggestion of my climbing friends. Check them out at firnlinedesign.com

V-Dart V thread tool

Stainless coat hanger, some athletic tape, and a plastic cap I found in my garage. Took less than 10 minutes to make.

V-Thread