Campus Board Training

bowshaaa wrote: That's dedication when you make your own board, very impressive. I really like your setup you have. I may have to try something like this and I bet it's cheaper than a commercial hangboard. Also nice blog, very good content. How do I subscribe to your blog?

Not my blog! I just stole the idea from there (should edit that post).
It was definitely cheaper, and I like it better than most of the commercial boards I've owned/used.

I think the key has been the combination of smaller edges and lower volume/higher intensity hangs, though I'll report back more as I spend more time on this method.

Also, I like that I can get the workout done in less than 25 minutes which includes some planking for core and pushups for opposition, as well as still keep up with my normal climbing routine (I try and do the board in the morning, then gym climb in the evening)

frankstoneline wrote: Not my blog! I just stole the idea from there (should edit that post). It was definitely cheaper, and I like it better than most of the commercial boards I've owned/used. I think the key has been the combination of smaller edges and lower volume/higher intensity hangs, though I'll report back more as I spend more time on this method. Also, I like that I can get the workout done in less than 25 minutes which includes some planking for core and pushups for opposition, as well as still keep up with my normal climbing routine (I try and do the board in the morning, then gym climb in the evening)

No worries, still nice job putting one together of your own. Thanks for sharing it still though, I want to put one together now.

I have a hangboard set up with the DRCC v3, which is actually harder than the v5, and a set of system holds. I like it a ton.

JohnWesely wrote:I have a hangboard set up with the DRCC v3, which is actually harder than the v5, and a set of system holds. I like it a ton.

We have the v5.12 at our gym. I really like the DRCC hangboards dual textured coating, very finger friendly!

JohnWesely wrote:I have a hangboard set up with the DRCC v3, which is actually harder than the v5,

How's that? Smaller holds on the V3? Really?

Will S wrote: How's that? Smaller holds on the V3? Really?

The holds are smaller on the v3. I thought the v5 was a lot like the metolius simulator, lots of useless easy holds. The v3 takes all of the usable holds from the v5 and puts them in a compact package.

JohnWesely wrote: The holds are smaller on the v3. I thought the v5 was a lot like the metolius simulator, lots of useless easy holds. The v3 takes all of the usable holds from the v5 and puts them in a compact package.

Has a lot of holds, really only need top and bottom ones, no slopers, and pinches are ok at best

Progress on the campusing front! After about 5 sessions in the early summer and now 3 sessions in my current periodization cycle I can finally ladder! Last night I had a huge breakthrough and could consistently ladder the 1x with matched hands and then alternating hands. I could also ladder 2x okay for the first time. My best long move so far is 1-4-5(match) with either hand leading though I haven't tried 1-4-6 yet. I also tried 1-5 but couldn't latch. I also tried doubles a little but don't have the timing right yet.

I'm using the big rungs and going up only and dropping off for now but huge progress! I did play on the medium rungs a little and can ladder those too but I'm going to finish this round mostly on large to keep improving my technique.

Chris Plesko wrote:Progress on the campusing front! After about 5 sessions in the early summer and now 3 sessions in my current periodization cycle I can finally ladder! Last night I had a huge breakthrough and could consistently ladder the 1x with matched hands and then alternating hands. I could also ladder 2x okay for the first time. My best long move so far is 1-4-5(match) with either hand leading though I haven't tried 1-4-6 yet. I also tried 1-5 but couldn't latch. I also tried doubles a little but don't have the timing right yet. I'm using the big rungs and going up only and dropping off for now but huge progress! I did play on the medium rungs a little and can ladder those too but I'm going to finish this round mostly on large to keep improving my technique.

Congrats! Glad to hear progress! How is it impacting your overall climbing ability? Improved?

Chris Plesko wrote:Progress on the campusing front! After about 5 sessions in the early summer and now 3 sessions in my current periodization cycle I can finally ladder! Last night I had a huge breakthrough and could consistently ladder the 1x with matched hands and then alternating hands. I could also ladder 2x okay for the first time. My best long move so far is 1-4-5(match) with either hand leading though I haven't tried 1-4-6 yet. I also tried 1-5 but couldn't latch. I also tried doubles a little but don't have the timing right yet.....

Chris, try starting on 1 and 2 then going to 5.
Doubles are really all about timing, you'll be able to do them all of a sudden, it's kind of weird.

Thanks Lee, I'll try the stagger. For now learning the timing and technique is a huge part of it I can tell.

No known impact on climbing yet but I've got a 4 day weekend and my stitches are out (cut my shin bad a month ago) so I'll see how it goes. At the gym my flash/quick send level is increasing and mid 12s no longer have any stopper moves. Yes!

Before I started bouldering I got stopped at ~11a

BTW I'm keeping my sessions short. Starting every 90 seconds and doing about 16 sets total in 24 minutes. WU is 40 min of progressive increases then 10 min rest. After campusing I rest ~20 minutes and then boulder or project routes.

As I get used to the training i will try a second set but for now max power is def gone after 1 set. So far my fingers and elbows are still happy and I know I still need plenty of core and movement training from real climbing.

Chris Plesko wrote:BTW I'm keeping my sessions short. Starting every 90 seconds and doing about 16 sets total in 24 minutes. WU is 40 min of progressive increases then 10 min rest. After campusing I rest ~20 minutes and then boulder or project routes. As I get used to the training i will try a second set but for now max power is def gone after 1 set. So far my fingers and elbows are still happy and I know I still need plenty of core and movement training from real climbing.

That's good to keep the sessions short until your muscles and tendons are used to/strengthened for the longer sessions. Nice work!

Chris Plesko wrote:No known impact on climbing yet but I've got a 4 day weekend and my stitches are out (cut my shin bad a month ago) so I'll see how it goes.

Did you catch a peddle in your shin?

LeeAB wrote: Did you catch a peddle in your shin?

Not this time. Slipped on my bouldering warmup and put a big ass hole in my shin. 7 stitches later it was all better. Just baaaad luck.

Sent a long term project today and made good progress on 2 more at the next level! Taking a rest day tomorrow and then back to the boulders on Tuesday if the weather is good enough.

Chris Plesko wrote:Sent a long term project today and made good progress on 2 more at the next level! Taking a rest day tomorrow and then back to the boulders on Tuesday if the weather is good enough.

Tearin' it up! Congrats on the progress!

For those following training progress, I sent my first V6 today. Crimpy, my style, whatever. I know V6 is still nothing but it was fun. My V4 plateau is officially busted and it's hard not to feel that the hangboarding and campus work helped.

Do I still have a ton of work to do learning technique? Yep. Am I going to keep training too? Yep. We'll see where it takes me. I'm going to have to get on a rope again soon.

Chris Plesko wrote:For those following training progress, I sent my first V6 today. Crimpy, my style, whatever. I know V6 is still nothing but it was fun. My V4 plateau is officially busted and it's hard not to feel that the hangboarding and campus work helped. Do I still have a ton of work to do learning technique? Yep. Am I going to keep training too? Yep. We'll see where it takes me. I'm going to have to get on a rope again soon.

It's not what the grade means to someone else, it's what it means to you. Congrat's on the progress and keep the training going strong!

Just another data point. After some serious sendage outside for me, sickness and fatigue knocked me back a peg. 8+ weeks of hard training left me tired. I wrapped up MaxR and I'm taking a little rest before starting PE. I'm planning on taking at least 3 rest days, if not 4 until I'm healthy and my fingers feel better. I don't have any pain but they're tired and a bit achey.

I had pretty huge gains so far this round and I'm taking a 2 trips in late March, early April to Moab and Joes to climb so after a rest, PE plus a touch of HYP/MaxR mixed in should see me ready to peak. Hoping for more V5's and V6's and maybe a 1 move V7 I've been working a bit.