Scarpa Techno

Does anyone have the technos? if so how do you like them?

Mine blew up before I ever had them resoled. The material near the heal tore open. Maybe I got a lemon.

I've had mine for about a year now and I'm very happy with them. I use them as my trad shoes, not sure they would be the best sport climbing shoe, but for cracks they are awesome. They are comfortable for all day climbing and I really like the lacing system on them as well. I'll definitely be getting these resoled a few times as long as the rest of them holds up.

Climbed in Technos for quite few years (since they came out, in fact). Good all-around, all-day trad shoe with slightly higher performance than something like, say, the Mythos (my previous go-to shoe for these applications). Mine have all lasted through at least one resole. They do stretch about 1/2 size, but this requires more time than the average amount of time to occur, so buy 'em comfy (flat toes). When they stretch, get a new pair and the stretched ones become your cold-weather shoes that you wear a sock-liner with.

yeah it's down between the five ten 5x's and these for me i just can't make a decision

I have the Techno's now and really couldn't be happier. Though the most I have reached outdoors is 5.11, I don't feel as though it has hindered me whats so ever (i let myself take care of that!). As mentioned before they did stretch out around a half size, so if you plan accordingly be ready for a really comfortable all-day climbing shoe. However if you are wanting to get into some really technical sport climbing or bouldering then I would probably follow another route.

Super powerful crack shoe, a lot stiffer than the mythos, when you crank em, they give er'.

yeah i trad climb most of the time but the stuff closest to me is all steep sandstone sportier stuff so i was looking for something that's good at both. any suggestions? or would these be a good candidate?

A good rule of thumb for steep sporty walls is the smaller the edges you need to use for footholds the more aggressive, or "down turned" toe shoe you should use. If this is the case you might consider a bit more aggressive downward turned shoe than the Techno.

Through my several pairs of Technos I have learned that they excel at slabby technical routes on granite and sandstone, they are very powerful in cracks, and they are great for most vertical or slightly less than vertical edging. They are a higher performance trad style shoe, fairly stiff with a flatter last but slightly more narrow and agressive than a mythos. I like to think of them as mythos on steriods.

For the more agressive sporty climbing you might consider a shoe like the evolve Demorto or similar, in a slightly more comfortable (larger) size for dual use in cracks.

So, I've essentially read every piece of information, forum, review, etc. on the web about the Technos. But there are a few specific questions that I didn't really find the answer to. I am a new climber- like, a really, really new climber. The only climbs I've done so far we're 5.6, and 5.7s; which, were very physically easy, but I'm working on my fear of heights. Anyhow, the only shoes I've worn were borrowed and they were Mythos (mens, size 40). They fit like a dream. Well, they fit how everyone told me they were supposed to- snug, but not too uncomfortable. I really liked the feel of climbing in them. Anyhow, I noticed that the Clymb had the Technos for only $25 (which was free with my credit). So I thought, why not? There were a wide range of sizes available, so I browsed and browsed trying to figure out which size to order. Some people said that the Technos run extremely small, some people said they ordered them two sizes too small and they fit well. Some people said order them true to size, etc., etc. I was confused. In street shoes I wear a women's size 8 1/2-8 3/4. I intended to order the 40 in the technos, but after browsing around for about an hour- that size was sold out. So, I settled on the 39.5. (I ordered the mens techno, btw) I suppose I will just see how they fit when they arrive. If they are too snug when I receive them, could I expect for them to stretch? A lot of people on forums, reviews and such said that this was a good beginner shoe? Is this true? If they don't fit, I'm on the look for an inexpensive, beginner shoe. Although, I would like a shoe that was good for a beginner-intermediate climber- in the case I excel and want something more aggressive a bit sooner. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Tylerevyn,
I have the mythos, and in love them. I don't climb with them in the gym though. For gym climbing, I use the La sportiva Nago. It's a beginner shoe, but I consider it the poor man's mythos. Very comfortable and performance is fine. It's $100 and I'd advise spending any more than that as a beginner. Truth be told, any shoe on sale would be fine, if its comfortable. You'll end up trashing your shoes anyway, no matter how you climb. It took me years to figure out what shoes were "good" for. I even bought a pair of la sportiva testarosas for half price and brought them to Yosemite to learn how to climb crack. Everyone will tell you that shoe is for overhanging sport, but I stuffed them into moderate handcracks for weeks on end and was none the wiser. Until you are really shredding the gnar, your shoes won't matter much, IMHO.

The Technos have a lacing strap that helps lock the shoe/heel in place that I really liked; but it broke on my right shoe, so I pulled it out. Still climbed in them for a while though. Mostly face climbing. I found 5.10 Newtons on sale and went to them for my all day shoe. Very comfortable. Thick soles, but still climb good for what I do. For more aggressive climbs I got the evolve pontas, also on a really good sale. If Sharma can climb an overhanging ocean arch in them, they can handle anything I can climb. I've never paid over $80 for shoes; so I'm cheap I guess. Pic of my technos should be attached. Size 46. They have some chalk spilt on them, and the rubber is a little slick at this point, but paypal me $10 and I'll send them to you.

I'm very interested in those La Sportiva Tarantulas! If the Technos don't fit me, atleast. What size should I order- If I wear a 40 in the Mythos, and a 8 1/2-8 3/4 street shoe? I would just go to a shop and try some shoes on, but the nearest place with gear is quite a ways away. And they only have a few, very pricey shoes.
The Mythos that I borrowed were fairly broken in, and probably stretched a bit.

Technos fit me true to size (mens 10.5 techno euro size 42.5), but in the smaller womens size, my wife had to go up a couple sizes. By the standard chart sizes and Scarpa's own recommendation (I called them before ordereing for my wife) She is US women's 7.5, which straight across should be 38 meaning size down 1/2 size to 37.5, but she had to go up to 39.5. At 39.5 they were sized just right, too tight to wear for more than a pitch at a time the first couple days, now stretced out to perfection.

Seems strange to me she sized up since the larger sizes seem true to the overall norm.

I had a pair that I really liked a lot and then unfortunately left at the base of a climb and lost.

I replaced them, and the replacement pair didn't seem to fit or perform quite as well. The new pair I think are actually a little tighter than ideal, and it seems like this shoe performs best (for me, anyway) fully flat-footed.

I use them now for times when I really want a little extra edging performance, but most of the time I grab my TC pro's, which I pretty much just like more and more all the time for almost everything.