The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Yeah man, was talking about the ice flows below Black Lake which I believe one of them is Reflections per description. The route we did is right of Black Lake Slabs.

Hidden Falls of Glenwood Canyon is in pretty fat, if SUPER slushy and wet on P1. Good screws can be found, with some discerning eyes, amid the plated weirdness. FYI: we ran into Union Pacific security. He was stern, but reasonable, and let us quickly scamper over the tracks and up the hill, but a party a little further back was scuttled (I'm not sure why, other than maybe they still had more tracks to cross?). I recommend we be courteous and discrete, and hope for the best - this could get bad, as there is no other good way other than using the tracks right-of-way to some degree....

Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??

Anything recent on Martha or the longs pk circ in general?

Thanks,

Seth

bgleason wrote:Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??

Looked "decent" when I drove by this past weekend.

seth0687 wrote:Anything recent on Martha or the longs pk circ in general? Thanks, Seth

couple climbed it two weeks ago and said it was super dry, dont know what is looks like after the new snow last week.

Also, Alexanders was climeable but pretty dry in the thinner spots. Darkstar and Dreamweaver looked like they should be holding ice and there is deffinantly ice in the loft. Doesn't look like smears will come in.

Does anyone know what conditions are like in Vail?

^Given the time of year, not great.

Pretty much everything free standing except for the Des and the Pencil is out.
Firehouse Right has 2 or 3 leadable lines, the left only has one. Pitkin and Pumphouse are in but not near as fat as they should be.
Haven't been up to spiral but it looks kinda hacked out and acrappy from the highway.

bgleason wrote:Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??

I climbed there on Monday. It was my first time there so I don't have any point of comparison to past seasons, but there were three lines to be climbed with decent ice. I'm guessing this is typical given the south-facing aspect, but by 11am it was already getting excessively soft and wet, so we bailed. Cold weather would be good...

Awesome. Thanks for the update. That's really helpful!

The Ice Park in Lake City is FAT. Not picked out at all. Hardly anybody around.

Lake City Ice Park, 2/7/2013.

Also walked up to the Sherman climb in Sherman. Some serious avalanche chunder at the the bottom but the ice is in FAT. Horrible breakable crust on the approach but there is a boot pack for now. I would think twice about getting on this after any fresh snow.

The Sherman Climb, 2/8/2013.

Anyone seen Total Abandon recently?

Also, I am curious about the approach from Manitou. On the MP post it says see R&I #85 for the approach from Manitou....I don't have that issue. Anyone care to give the beta?

No with the lack of snow and moisture I saw up there last week with the cold temps that Pikes has had I would say it will be much more mixed. It didn't come in super thick to begin with this year.

The approach from Manitou is probably to take the Barr Trail to the Bottomless Pit which is like 12 miles. You could take the Cog about halfway but it's still quite a slog. Only been desperate enough to hike up there once in the winter

On another note does anyone think ice will form on the First Flatiron this weekend if the rainy/snowy forecast with cold nights is accurate? Or will it not be cold enough for long enough before the sun comes out again?

Paul, you got me curious, so reading R&I #85, it talks about the $6/person toll road and the $8-10\/person cog railroad. It doesn't seem to mention other options. It does discuss Wet & Wild, 400', 5.8 WI5.

It's been warm on rock for a while, so it'll have to be a perfect timing kind of thing on the 1st Flatiron if we get a big, wet dump, it seems to me.

Thanks. That was quick. Hope for a wet dump. I have not climbed the silk road, but I would love to get on it if it would form up soon.

J- with this forecast, I would think Tuesday early AM is your best bet for Silk Rd
forecast.weather.gov/MapCli…

Total Abandon looked pretty thick as of last weekend. The hike up Barr is huge, about 25miles RT. I've climbed TA from the Crags and it's not bad. About 5 miles each way.

seth0687 wrote:Went up to Hidden Falls in Wild Basin yesterday. The ice was great, but the main flow was the steepest that I've ever scene it. I'm gonna go on a limb and say WI4+ maybe even WI5. As you move up on the upper pillar the ice gets pretty thin, chandeliered, and hollow. The small flow just left of the main flow was in FAT and offers a good way up for a TR if you so choose. The mixed lines to the right appeared to be "IN" but are way above my abilities so take it for what it's worth.

Was up there 2 days ago. Met a couple of guys who were very nice. The climb was pretty wet, drippy in the middle. The holes seen in the picture are now small caves with some fun overhanging pulls. Overall its great, a fairly stout lead, but good feet. Walk up/off is mostly dirt. Almost to small this year for more than one party at a time. Approach is cake with the road open so far in. Hiked in in a T-shirt. Crazy for Feb.

WI5 mini pillar to the right is fun, but the lower half is chandeliery. Pumpy, but fun. Get it on a weekday, a weekend up there would be no fun sitting around.

mountainproject.com/v/10798… (seth0687's picture)

Climbed total abandonment this sunday the crux pitch was a lot fatter than other tr's the 3 rd a t little scrachy all in all its in wi4-m4

Cornett Falls in Telluride climbs nice. Bridalveil had great hero sticks from bottom to top, with nice belay caves and tunnels.

Cornett Falls.

Cornett 2.

Bridalveil starting second pitch from first pitch belay cave.