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Catskills mixed routes?

Original Post
mtn smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

Methinks that the ice in the catskills will be mostly shot after this warm spell, but I really want to climb. I've never climbed a pure mixed route before but want to give it a shot; anyone have suggestions for good easy mixed stuff in the catskills?

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

just climb any route that would been mixed...uits the same route now without the ice. just more drytooling.

its going to be pretty wet though.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
superkick wrote:just climb any route that would been mixed...uits the same route now without the ice. just more drytooling. its going to be pretty wet though.
That's not such good advice. In the absence of ice, most Catskills routes can't be well protected (the rock is chossy). The recognized mixed routes usually have a few key bolts. There are a few new things being done in Stoney Clove that go entirely on modern gear (check the photos at NEice.com), but I don't know that they're appropriate for beginners. I'm seeing a lot of M4 and M5 ratings and that's often compared to 5.10ish. Is that "easy"?

But not to worry, the ice has come back with a vengeance.
Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Gunkiemike wrote: That's not such good advice. In the absence of ice, most Catskills routes can't be well protected (the rock is chossy). The recognized mixed routes usually have a few key bolts. There are a few new things being done in Stoney Clove that go entirely on modern gear (check the photos at NEice.com), but I don't know that they're appropriate for beginners. I'm seeing a lot of M4 and M5 ratings and that's often compared to 5.10ish. Is that "easy"? But not to worry, the ice has come back with a vengeance.
5.10 is the new 5.4+
Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I climb M5, and I sure as hell don't climb 5.10 (at least not at the Gunks or Daks).

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

I get similarly pumped leading bolted M7 as I do leading 5.10 gunks routes on gear.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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