Mountain Project Logo

The best cracks of the north east

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
Jonathan Clark wrote:Southern Hospitality @ Poke-O White Knight @ Spider's Web It's Only Entertainment @ Spider's Web Pretty much all of Spider's Web
All awesome recommendations. As long as we're talking Poko, we'll need to toss in Amongst the Crowds and Macho, too.
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

That picture of Hot Seat reminded me of this one of Lumberjack Crack at Found Ledge, NH 60ft and a little easier at 11c.

David Powers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 274

Lumberjack Crack looks pretty sweet. Hot Seat is much more slabby. Hot Seat is 100', at half height it turns into an off-width after a small roof. I believe the consensus is .11d.

I feel like i have been to quite a variety of crags around new England. Sad to say i have yet to even see the Rose and The Thorn. The Rose looks ultra classic.

The Cracks Mark mentioned at Greens are some of the best i have done due to their length and setting.

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
David Powers wrote:Lumberjack Crack looks pretty sweet. Hot Seat is much more slabby. Hot Seat is 100', at half height it turns into an off-width after a small roof. I believe the consensus is .11d. I feel like i have been to quite a variety of crags around new England. Sad to say i have yet to even see the Rose and The Thorn. The Rose looks ultra classic. The Cracks Mark mentioned at Greens are some of the best i have done due to their length and setting.
Hey Dave,

Funny, I was just thinking how I need to get up your way and check out Hot Seat. Let us know if you ever come down here. We'll show you around.

Cheers,

Derek
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Thanks for the correction, Dave. I edited my post.

We need more pictures of these cracks and why people think they are good.

Aaron Lefland · · Hamden, CT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 25

I can't believe that no one has mentioned "They Died Laughing" at Cathedral. Sure, the location is not ideal as some of the other stuff on this list. But in terms of awesome jamming, protection reliability, and ease of access, its one of my favorite 5.9's anywhere!

mountainproject.com/v/they-…

scott e. tarrant · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 250
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Women may be the best multi pich climb on the crag.esp with the Wild start.. the face crux is pretty tough

Christopher Gagne · · Dover · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,112

This line is out of my range but is a beautiful line to look at and sees little to no action.
Speckman's 5.12 Devil's Den Pawtuckaway

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330
David Powers wrote:Hot Seat in Hell at Wheeler Mt. will knock your socks off. A bit hard to find though.
That's a fact, David! Love that route and it's neighbor, "Eagle Point Crack".

And to reiterate what Derek D. said about the Vermont cracks...all great routes, and worth the visit if in the area.

Gunks--Resistance, Persistence, Lost City Crack, Ants' Line, and Ken's Crack.

Green Mt. Breakdown, Old Town, and that really great 5.9 to the left of Wafer Step...can't recall the name. All at the Precipice, Acadia.
M LaViolette Jr · · The Past · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 448
S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

5.9 left of Wafer Step? Is that Recollections of Pacifica?
I have never been on Pacifica but I have been on Return To Forever and it is great. Connecticut Cracks is good too, though not one continuous crack.

GMBurns · · The Fucking Moon, man, the… · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 470
S. Neoh wrote:5.9 left of Wafer Step? Is that Recollections of Pacifica? I have never been on Pacifica but I have been on Return To Forever and it is great. Connecticut Cracks is good too, though not one continuous crack.
Yeah, Pacifca. I wouldn't really call Pacifica a crack climb. Yeah, it has a crack at the start, but the crux is on the slabby part up above.
J. Nickel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 100

Re: Jim Lawyer, Release the Kraken @ Pinnacle
+1! A spectacular steep crack. 11c/d?
Hoping to send this year.
Jonathan

jake 356 · · worcester · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

Really short 30ft or so at lookout rock 3-4" wide over hanging. 45 degre left leaning 5.11 I believe
Can't remember the name it's in Boston rocks ill find the pic I took of it

David Powers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 274

Old Town and They Died laughing are both great. Good suggestions. I am sure we are missing a lot of the obvious ones.

Hey Derek,

Sounds good, lets make it happen in the spring. I will show you mine if you show me yours ; )

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Gotta represent MA a little more - Jane, Cro-Mag and Intertwine at Crow - although you can face climb a lot on all those. Yosemite and Barndoor at Farley.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
MaxSuffering wrote:Adirondacks: Drop, Fly or Die On The Loose TR Fear And loathing in Keene Valley Tequila mockingbird Arachnid Traction Coy Dog Tennessee Excursion Forever Wild Fastest Gun (pitches 1, 2 + 4) Fear Of Touching Aerie (AKA: the Moss Cliff Linkup) Mystery Achievement Windjammer
That is a great starter list of classic ADK cracks. NH locals may protest this, but I think that the Dacks have the best collection and concentration of crack climbs in the Northeast.

A few more favorite ADK crack climbs.

Butterflies are Free to Partition; Washbowl Cliff.
Best 5.9 linkup around, 2 pitches. First pitch has nice 5.9 hand crack, 2nd pitch is amazing 5.8+ handcrack in a huge dihedral.

Octoberfist (5.10+), Upper Tiers, Poko
Way-obscure due to location, but superb. Not too tall (60 feet?) but sustained and steep. Crux is a green Camalot section in a slight bulge.

White Knight (12a) Spiders Web
Soooooo good. Basically everything else at the Web deserves to be at the top of this list as well.
Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45
Marshfield Corners, p3

Marshfield corners p3! VT...awesome setting, needs more traffic. 10b
stephen arsenault · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 66

A few more:

Duet Direct-Cannon

I like the 3rd pitch of Intimidation-Cathedral

Perhaps already mentioned-Nutcracker-Classic!

Did Unconquerable Crack at Ragged, last Fall-really great!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "The best cracks of the north east"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.