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> Black Wall
> 1. Black Wall - Left
No Stems No Seeds
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Max Jones and Gary Allen, 1977 |
Page Views: | 1,913 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | V.X. on Jul 2, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
No Stems No Seeds is the acute right leaning corner above Slipstream. It doesn't look hard but this climb takes all the wide skills you've got. Armbar, bridge, and stem you way up the blank dihedral and hope the few tiny micro nuts will keep you off the deck. About halfway up a pinscar takes some good small cams.
This climb was first free climbed with fixed pins. Early in this climb's history, pitons were removed or pulled out from falls. No one replaced the pins then, so consensus is to leave it clean. Now it is regarded as a runout test piece without ant them.
This climb was first free climbed with fixed pins. Early in this climb's history, pitons were removed or pulled out from falls. No one replaced the pins then, so consensus is to leave it clean. Now it is regarded as a runout test piece without ant them.
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