Most recommended trad leads rated 5.6 or 5.7 at JTree.
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I got a full rack and some! Looking for a few good routes in the area. Prefer easy walk offs or rap offs. |
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Check out The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree: 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9 it's a good place to start. |
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@Frank - nifty page! printed it and gonna use it for shizzle!!! |
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Mental physics (5.7+) is a must-do (if you can find it). And if you are feeling confident, definitely try Sail Away (5.8-). |
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+1 for Mental Physics |
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+1 for SW corner of headstone and double cross |
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Zigler wrote:@Frank - nifty page! printed it and gonna use it for shizzle!!!Ziggy - use that page for climbing, not for "shizzle." |
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+1 for Mental Physics and Toe Jam, check the long thread here before hopping on Double Cross. We have also enjoyed New Toy and Gargoyle and there area couple of good routes across the way from New Toy that are in the big book (can't recall their names right now). A couple of trips ago, we also found a number of enjoyable moderate climbs in the area called Outer Mongolia - not the best place to go if it's super windy though. |
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White Lightning |
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What's wrong with Eff 8?? A little slick at the bottom and walk off sucks otherwise a nice long climb. I did it and liked it. Bussioneer not so much...awkward, slick, not well protected. White lightening sandbag galore for the grade. |
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FrankPS wrote: Ziggy - use that page for climbing, not for "shizzle."Oh point taken,my brotha...and what's up with all that sweaty palms talk at the beginning???? See ya in the funny pages! |
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Southwest corner is good for the grade, although I would call it a one hit wonder, it"s neither here nor there. I must admit that it tookk me a little bit of "dancing" at the top to pass the exposed area, good frixion so it is a 6. Mike's book P2 got my attention at the top for realz. |
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C Miller wrote:The Route Finder function on this site is quite good - mountainproject.com/scripts…I know, Admin, I know all that....the reason why I started this thread is that I need fresh PEOPLE"S OPINION. There are guide books, climbers at the crag, guides at the crag etc. etc. put simply we are talking rocks here. Peace! Ziggy zig zig |
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Double Dog Leg.... in the rock garden valley. |
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If you're looking for an intro to offwidth climbing then I'd recommend dolphin which is a 5.6 or 5.7 (I forget). It is right next to Bird of Fire which is a fun top rope for beginners. |
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I dont like off width. But thanx anyway. |
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Zigler wrote:I dont like off width. But thanx anyway. Why is mental physics hard to find. Please send beta on how to find it ASAP!!!!! ZiggyIt's not hard to find. |
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Like he said, it's not hard to find. You just have to hoof it out there. It's the crack up the middle of the big dome. Great route; one of my favs anywhere. |
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+1 for Toe Jam. Excellent climb. If you want a bunch of moderates in the same area, check out Trashcan Rock. If you want to set up top ropes at the end of the day, check out the Thin Wall in Real Hidden Valley. I also really liked Leapyear Flake on Dairy Queen Wall, although you need some thin gear (#00 or #0 master cam) for the bottom section if you want to make it really safe. There's a few other good climbs at Dairy Queen, but it is most likely in the shade this time of year. |
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Mountain project does have a pretty sweet little route finder for your use. Some routes mountain project suggested |