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All Locations >
Utah
> S Central Utah
> Capitol Reef
> Fruita Area
> Grand Wash
> Terrible Twos Wall
Terrible Two's
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Terrible Twos Wall
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BFF T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Breeding Hips T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Capital Gains T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Capitol Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left and Right Practice Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Necco Wafer, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussy Bolt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Sandy Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sharon's crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soapstone Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Take Capitol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Terrible Two's T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thinner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Brett Ruckman, Marco Cornacchione 5/15/93 |
| Page Views: | 2,693 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | josh holmes on Oct 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
As of 2020, climbing in Capitol Reef requires a permit: mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Description
Definitely the best line at the crag. A distinct zig-zagging crack to the left of Thinner. Fairly sustained climbing with three distinct hard sections: 1) at the bottom getting to the first good stance, 2) at the traversing "Z" feature, and 3) the final fingery sprint to the anchor.
Location
Drive up Grand Wash about a 1/2 mile or so and park just before the road narrows and dirt walls rise up on either side as you enter the canyon proper. There is a decent place to park on the south side of the road directly below the climbs. The wall is on the left hand side (north) of the canyon about 100 yards from the car. Terrible Two's and Thinner are obvious splitter cracks about 10 feet apart from each other. The practice cracks are to the right of Thinner in a small depression/alcovey thing and are hard to see from the road. To the left of Terrible Two's is the right facing, aptly named Soapstone Dihedral.
Protection
2 .5 camalots, alot of .75 camalots ( I placed 4), about 4 #1 camalots, 1 #2 camalot, 2-3 green aliens, 2-3 yellow aliens, a blue metolious master cam went in great at the top. anchor as of 10/10/08 was 1 bolt, 1 drilled angle...both looked bomber, although the angle has probably been there since the FA.
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