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Yosemite

Original Post
Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

So guys Im going out to yosemite this summer for anywhere from 3-5 weeks. And I started at looking at what to do while there and my itinery for the trip. I honesly have no idea where to start, any ideas? I will be climbing about half the time and hiking the rest.

Mark Vogel · · Lander, WY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 35

First stop, El Cap Meadow!

John D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 10

Depends on what time of the summer you'll be there, may and early june you can probably climb in the valley, after that, it'll be so warm that you'd probably prefer to climb in toulume. If you like hiking and climbing check out snake dike, it's got about 8 pitches of climbing and 18 miles of hiking. You can do it in a long day, or spend the night along the way and do it in 2.

TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

Depends also on difficulty level you want to climb. Post that up--we'll go from there!

Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

Yeah and have you climbed crack before? You want single or multi pitch?

Tim McCabe · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 130

If you want to climb in the Valley it's more of a spring or fall place, Toulume and the High Sierra stuff in full summer.

Either way with 5 weeks you should be able to; push yourself on shorter climbs, get on some longer stuff (staying more within your limit), and spend some time in the back country.

When your ready to move fast combine this mountainproject.com/v/royal…
and this mountainproject.com/v/crest…
for one of the best days on rock ever.

Nick Zmyewski · · Newark, DE · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 250

You can definitely climb in summer, you just have to change your tactics a little. When I was there last summer, we would wake up early 6am, and go climb a few pitch climb (up to 5 pitches for us), then get down before it got too hot. Relax during the day and either hike or swim in the river. Then in the evening when it starts to cool off, but before the sun goes down you get 2 or 3 hours of climbing at a shady crag. And there is always night climbing, if you're comfortable with that.

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

start by figuring out a gameplan for living in the valley for 3-5 weeks

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370
S Denny wrote:start by figuring out a gameplan for living in the valley for 3-5 weeks
+1. It is possabile to sneak around Camp 4 for a while, but after about 2 weeks you might get sick of being illegal. I did. Totally posssible though, if you're savy and out of camp all day.
vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560

I would consider spending 3-5 weeks in Yosemite and the Sierra in general , maybe some alpine routes , east side exploration and hiking . 3 - 5 weeks in only the Valley might get stale / difficult ... Enjoy .

Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

Not trying to do anything too too hard climbing wise when Im out there but, single and and multipitch are fine, I have done some crack climbing out here in new england. I was planning on climbing el cap, and hiking around a lot while I was there. And I can go anytime over the summer starting around june 15-august 25th. And Im not sure who Im going with, my climbing partner is busy all summer :/. If anyone wants to climb with me while im out there, or tag along on hiking feel free.

TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

"not trying to on do anything too too hard climbing wise . . . I was planning on climbing El Cap . . ."
WTF? Am I missing something here?

Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

31 Pitches of 5.9+, Im use to leading 5.11's and 5.12's, 5.9 isnt that hard.

hrdeyo · · Greenbay, WI · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Valley Climbs (too many tourist and too hot on the ground during the summer)
Bouldering anywhere (before 9am of after dark during summer)
5.8 Nut Cracker-five pitches, easy for the grade classic
5.9 Central pillar frenzy- 4-5 pitches, link the first two pitches wonky chimney into amazing finger cracks (best hangover cure ever, finger cracks not the squeezy bit, that sucked)
5.10 Serenity Crack 3 pitches into sons of yesterday-make it ten pitches
5.11 so many option is you climb this grade. Astroman, Rostrum, El cap west face(I'm looking for a partner to climb all these this summer)
High Country Climbing(best during the summer avoid tourons)
Any bouldering
Mathes Crest- (Amazing hike to easy climbing with rad views the entire way)
Cathedral peak (most amazing 5 pitch 5.7 on the planet)Super Aesthetic
Tenya peak(short approach 5.3 climbing) Awesome solo in the morning swim inn Lake Tenya in the afternoon.

Hikes
Half Dome, Clouds Rest, Any Grove, North Dome
rest days float the Merced drinking brass monkeys, laugh at tourist from a high vantage point.

If you need a place to place to crash, shower, or climbing partner. pm me when you get into Yosemite. I'll be there April through October.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101
Nick Lincoln wrote:31 Pitches of 5.9+, Im use to leading 5.11's and 5.12's, 5.9 isnt that hard.
Hahahahaha... Good one
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Nick Lincoln wrote:31 Pitches of 5.9+, Im use to leading 5.11's and 5.12's, 5.9 isnt that hard.
It might not be that hard for you, and you may have enough experience to just ignore my advice. If so, that's awesome.

But if you really want to finish El Cap, you should consider it hard, and you should take it seriously. The 5.9+ climbing is certainly the easiest part, even though it will feel more like 10+ with 2000 feet of exposure, the wind blowing, an aid rack hanging from your harness and a faster team behind you, hoping you don't cause a clusterfuck.

About half of the climbers bail on their first attempt and for many it takes more than two. People fail for all kids of reasons - ignorance and arrogance come to mind. Don't let your chance at success be ruined because it gets 5.9 in the guidebook. There's a little more to it than that.
TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160
Nick Lincoln wrote:31 Pitches of 5.9+, Im use to leading 5.11's and 5.12's, 5.9 (Edit: El Cap) isnt that hard.
We'll look for follow-up postings in either "Trip Reports" or "Injuries and Accidents". Or maybe "News at 11:00".
gunter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 10

Nothing like the casual stroll up El Cap to take it easy in the valley....Sounds like you might be asking for it (Rejection that is). Not only on here, but on one of the biggest faces in North America. French freeing/ Aiding is no walk in the park. (Pun intended)

James Arnold · · Chattanooga · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 55

Hmmm, 31 pitches of 9+ on the Captain, which route is that? I guess Salathe is kind of close, but at least a dozen of those are 3" or (much) wider...left festering wounds from my fists to my lats, but I'll be the first to cop to not having the best technique.

Always tried to remember Largo's maxim of "never resort to thrashing" but somehow, I get up in something like Hollow Flake (or the next pitch, Hollow Flake Chimney---worse imo, but maybe I was off route...) and I am thrashing. Plus you've got a haul rope, helmet and bevy of other wall stuff, mental and physical (see Ryan's post) on to really make things more "unwieldy."

You might find the quality of Yosemite crack climbing a bit different than that of NE...or maybe should be "quantity"...

In general though, free ratings on the Captain's aid routes can seem "light" in places-say most of Mescalito, as you are accounting for a full rack. Still, I've been gripped out of my gourd on something like da Bismarck Pitch (10a-or was it 9+ muahahaha)....definitely could have used a 9-11" piece.

My experience has been that it's actually all the hauling that crushes the "free climbing cuties" to steal another aphorism from Long. That's assuming you aren't going siege style top/down/bottom/up Still, there's no other sensation like being a "granite astronaut", hat tip to largo-again. GL.

TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

Yer

Gonna

Die!

Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

The nose route, and I will most likley send you a pm when I am there, Im 17 by the way lol

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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