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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Wall
> Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
Bird on a Wire
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 450
votes
Routes in Lost Horse Wall - Right Side
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Altitude Sickness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armor Plated Unicorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bird on a Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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China Plates T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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City Slickers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Conspiracy of Ravens T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dappled Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gossamer Wings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairline Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lost and Found T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mare's Tail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roan Way T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wilson Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Evans, Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 23,937 total · 94/month |
| Shared By: | The Gray Tradster on May 20, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Appropriately named, You'll feel like a Bird On A Wire on this one. Maybe the best route on this wall.
Pitch-1 Climb or 3rd class up to the ledge about half way between, The Swift and Dappled Mare. Set up a belay anchor in the left facing corner a few feet right of a vertical crack.
Pitch-2 Climb the ever thinning crack system past one bolt. Place a thin piece and tip-toe past it: crux. The crack eases and breaks right. Pick a convenient scoop to belay in.
Pitch-2 notes:
- Avoid setting up the next belay where the route crosses Dappled Mare, (traffic jam).
- The second retro-bolted bolt was removed. If it with the one bolt was used as a belay anchor, a leader falling from the crux would land on top of the belayer from high enough to do real damage to both.
Pitch-3 Continue right and up crossing Dappled Mare to the top.
With a long rope and a high tolerance for rope drag, pitches 2-3 could be combined, but why bother?
Photos
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