Rope Soloing Ice

I tr solo with a gri-gri on a single fixed strand. I tie back up knots every now and then. I don't clip my knots, but figure they'll act as stoppers if my gri gri were to fail. I've never had trouble with it not gripping on the rope though, even on my 9.1mm dry treated rope.

I would prefer a system that self feeds, like an ascender or mini trax, but I don't tr solo enough to buy dedicated gear, and I'd rather not tr solo on my ascenders.

I use minitraxion on a single strand with long sling around my shoulders to keep the device up. I've used it a lot for both rock and ice and have never had an issue.
You do need to do a few things though like file off the lock back tab so it doesn't open and stay open. It is also recommended that you use a steel locking carabiner to your belay loop. And in previous posts someone mentioned backing it up with a grigri which does not work because the device no longer feeds. If you're worried about one device run two minitraxions in sequence or an ascender as others have said.

The mini traxon is the way to go on a icy rope. I have used this with a fixed line and a back pack to weight the other end but still pull it up if i want. I place my traxon at my waist some times with a screamer and just push it up with my knee when i move.

garrettem wrote:It is also recommended that you use a steel locking carabiner to your belay loop.

Why?

Regarding the mini traxion, this is from Petzl's Website.

Use of the MINI TRAXION pulley:
Warning!
Petzl has studied the current usage of the MINI TRAXION as a self-belay device on a fixed rope. Serious accidents and many handling errors have been reported.

The risk of using the device with the cam held open is significant, as well as the possibility of accidental opening of the cam when climbing.

Consequently, the MINI TRAXION must be paired with a different ascender: ASCENSION, BASIC, MICROCENDER...
Petzl does not recommend using a system consisting of only two MINI TRAXION for selfbelayed solo climbing with a fixed rope.

Sorry should have specified a D shaped steel locking. I recommend a steel locking carabiner because they typically come in shapes that allow the minitraxion to track better and keep the biner from flipping the minitraxion onto the gate compared to aluminum carabiners that have higher angles and somewhat odd curves to them. Probably just personal preference.

As for the minitraxion warning that is exactly why you just file the locking tab off so the cam can't stay open. It takes about 5 minutes to do and is very easy. If you don't do that it can and will get stuck in the open position.

John D wrote:I tr solo with a gri-gri on a single fixed strand. I tie back up knots every now and then. I don't clip my knots, but figure they'll act as stoppers if my gri gri were to fail. I've never had trouble with it not gripping on the rope though, even on my 9.1mm dry treated rope. I would prefer a system that self feeds, like an ascender or mini trax, but I don't tr solo enough to buy dedicated gear, and I'd rather not tr solo on my ascenders.

I've done exactly this method and never had problems. I like the lead simulation because I hang from one hand and tie a knot with the other (teeth too). I figure if I can do that, I can drill a screw and clip it.
Kevin
Having a partner is fun too, I like the social aspect just as much as the work out aspect.

JohnnyG wrote:It's a great way to log a lot of vertical mileage without freezing or boring your partner. No better way for training, IMO. (I refer to TR solo, not lead solo) I anchor the rope in the middle, and drop both sides of the rope. Clip a mini-traxion to one strand and an ascender to the other strand. Has worked great for me, runs smoothly. I just got a petzl shunt, which I plan to use instead of the ascender.

I have used the set up that JohnnyG mentions (on a top rope for rock) and it works very well. I enjoy climbing alone and feel that on ice one would have to be especially careful (be it roped soling or on belay with a partner) that ANY fall has THE potential for broken ankles. I had a close friend break his ankle in the 80's while top roping on vertical ice when he fell and snagged a crampon on the way down. With that said - at least on rock - I use a Petzl Ascension on 1 strand of rope from above and a Mini-Traxion on a 2nd (totally separate) strand of rope from above - and it works well. Both move freely - I have redundancy in case either device fails AND 2 entirely separate strands of dynamic rope in case one was to be inadvertently cut. I would assume this would work just as well for top roping on ice. I admit lead climbing roped solo in ice would be a bit more sketchy...

I recently had my mini-traction ice up and stay in the open position...not so good for catching a fall, eh? It was only one time among 100+ times of using this method, but still notable.

So I'm a renewed proponent of have a true back-up.

Lately, I've been using a petzl mini-traction on one line and a petzl shunt on another line. It's been working well. This follows one of petzl recommended set-ups pretty pretty closely.

JohnnyG wrote:I recently had my mini-traction ice up and stay in the open position...not so good for catching a fall, eh? It was only one time among 100+ times of using this method, but still notable. So I'm a renewed proponent of have a true back-up. Lately, I've been using a petzl mini-traction on one line and a petzl shunt on another line. It's been working well. This follows one of petzl recommended set-ups pretty pretty closely.

JohnnyG,
Yup - that's why I use TWO separate devices for backups. If the 1 device fails I have a 2nd in place.

I enjoy TR soling ice. I find it a lot more chill than TR coloing rock, things generally feel less tenuous ice climbing than rock climbing (lead mentality of your tools being solid and all that).

I usually use a Petzl Basic and rig it so it sit up by my belly button. Mildly icy ropes are not so bad, but I have had a hunk of ice once jam my device open. Of key importance for me is the ability to either down climb to a knot or to be able to tie a knot one handed so you can rest on it and unjam your device if something unfortunate like this happens.

TR or Lead?

For lead:

-Option 1 for full on rope soloing:
-ATC guide/Reverso3 setup with chest harness and dragging loops. Works well, takes practice. google it...

fcorpet.free.fr/Denis/Solo-…

- Option 2, back looping, for protecting short pitches, or moves:
- Tie in to end of rope, make the loop as big as you want to climb protected and clove hitch it to a locking biner to your belay loop, clip loop into the piece you will leave (or existing piece) with a single biner.
- When you get to the end of the loop, unclip the rope from your harness and pull it through the piece leaving it. I find many times a 20m or 30m rope is more efficient (than a 50m or 60m) because I am only protecting a short section.

- Option 2a if rapping route:
- Follow previous steps clipping a loop into an anchor
- Clip BOTH strands into each following piece(s) until you run out of rope
- You would pull the rope just the same but clean the pitche(s) later as you rappel

Reference material:
andy-kirkpatrick.com/articl…
andy-kirkpatrick.com/articl…
andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/v…

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…
Refer to comments for an explanation

WOW,
This thing has legs....

Consensus:
Use the Device on one strand, backup device or knots on the other strand.
Sounds like that USHBA was pretty cool, but Micro/Mini, GriGri etc... are all good options (really wish I did not lose my Shunt a few years ago.)
Any type of toothed ascender not so much. They will catch, but your rope will take a beating. Especially with the Ropeman/Tiblocs (not recommended.) Note the Petxl Trax series don't really fit into this group, being a toothed device that is engineered for hauling but well suited to soloing.

However, Portwoods advice must be a joke.
We have beat the ATC guide Reverso thing to death, and a continuous loop system is retarded for single pitch ice soloing.

Lastly, I can't help but keep thinking about lead soloing.
When leading ice with a partner, I take the leader must not fall mentality (Will Gadd will back me up on this.) Lot's of sharp pointy shit to snag and fuck me up. The rope is a last line of defense. Lead soloing on ice is obviously more dangerous than rock with the icing factor- but at the same time if I am climbing a WI3 where I normally would not bother with a rope, in order to get to ice that I will be solo TR'ing- why not anchor my rope and throw a Gri Gri on the line?

I really have to emphasize:

DO NOT FOLLOW PORTWOOD'S LINKS ABOVE!!!!

One mentions the Cole method, which is the most asinine belay system ever!

logan johnson wrote:I really have to emphasize: DO NOT FOLLOW PORTWOOD'S LINKS ABOVE!!!! One mentions the Cole method, which is the most asinine belay system ever!

Just because you wouldn’t use it doesn’t mean it does not work nor is it worthless information to others. I have used these systems with success.

OK, after reading and browsing so many rope solo threads over the years, I thought I would say...

For TR soloing, I think there is a benefit to using a device that you can easily switch to rappelling with, instead of having to change over to another device. Just think: every time you reach the top of the route and you want to descend, if you have to switch devices, that's another opportunity to screw up...

For that reason (and others) I use a grigri on one strand, and backup knots on the other strand. When I get to the top, I simply use the grigri to rap back down, un-clipping the backup knots as I go. Relatively easy and fast. And safe.

I've also used a grigri for lead soling on rock and ice. I think using one of the new biners that keeps the belay device in position is a good idea.

But of course, to each his own....

The Cole method involves using your standard ATC type device with an ascender girth hitched to the harness as a replacement brake hand.

That does not sound fun at all...

Bruno,
I use the exact same setup for TR soloing on rock. Ton's of fun for getting a lot of climbing, in a short amount of time.
However, once on lead, I had my backup loop catch the GriGri latch in a fall and hit my backup knot.
Ironically enough I had a Silent Partner fail on TR. Brand new 10.2 (really skinny for a 10.2) with lots of dry coat. Slid about 15ft to my knot.

Good to know Logan...always wondered how often people would catch/block their Gri/Gri. I guess that's why it's always best to have the back up loops. Sure, they're a bit of a pain, but I just think of stopping to clip the loops like stopping to clip a bolt. Anyway, it works on ice too. All the best, Bruno.

I just got a Soloist, and will begin TR soloing as soon as my climbing partner (who has been using the Soloists for years) comes up to educate me. I'm going to back up with a shunt or Mini Traxion. My intent is to keep from abusing my rope with the teeth. So my questions are 1. any rope damage from grigri or traxion? 2. Does anyone use static rope? As I can get Edelweiss Canyon Static 9.6mm Rope cheap.I will be doing laps at a close by area to train.

keohan68 wrote:I just got a Soloist, and will begin TR soloing as soon as my climbing partner (who has been using the Soloists for years) comes up to educate me. I'm going to back up with a shunt or Mini Traxion. My intent is to keep from abusing my rope with the teeth. So my questions are 1. any rope damage from grigri or traxion? 2. Does anyone use static rope? As I can get Edelweiss Canyon Static 9.6mm Rope cheap.I will be doing laps at a close by area to train.

I do not use a static rope as it is said that even a top rope fall onto a device could generate a lot of force onto the rope and that it should be a dynamic rope to absorb the shock of any fall - so that is what I have only used.