Big Stoppers, should I bring them on multipitch?
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This seems like an odd question to pose considering the amounts of gear one brings on a multipitch, but i just don't feel like i place my biggest 3 stoppers very often and am considering taking them out of my multipitch rack. what's the use of hauling up unused gear, right? Just interested on anyone else's take on this (especially if you think this is the dumbest idea you've heard of). it's not really a weight concern but i think bringing another few small nuts would be much more useful (and lighter!). of course this is route dependent, but a standard rack would include EVERY size nut wouldn't it? |
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On the one hand I would say you don't place your three biggest stoppers because you don't look for spots when they would work well, most likely opting for cams instead. |
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I've stopped carrying my largest stoppers, I also found that I never used them. They aren't that heavy, but as you say, what is the point of carrying useless gear? I carry a set of metolius astro nuts, and then numbers 5 through 10 BD. I've found that I place nuts more often now that I carry less of them, perhaps because of ease of use? |
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i dont carry stopper abot a #10 BD...i occasionally wish i had the #11 & twelve if im linking pitches and runing out of gear, but make do with what i have. Tricams tend to overlap the bigger nuts and give you more options...though i do not own any |
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I would not worry about bringing larger nut sizes on multipitch...in a hole/crack that size you'll be able to make something work, especially if you have a narrow headed cam like a tcu or an alien. There are notable exceptions to this of course...If you're committing to a difficult pitch and you've worked it, maybe a big nut might be a better/easier placement than a cam. A better/more diverse multipitch choice (IMO) would be the first three sizes of tri-cam's...they work both passive and active, in pockets, have an excellent range, and are generally more useful (if you take the time to place them and depending on the area of course). |
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One thing I can say for having big nuts (ha)is that if I can I'll try to lean a bit more on passive for the belay to free up the cams for the next pitch. Of course that works better in theory most times, and I second bringing the tri-cams instead of the bigger nuts. |
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Use more passive gear at your belays. |
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3rd on the tri-cams. I don't carry any stoppers bigger than a pink tri-cam. The tri-cams cover more range and work in more places (including flares). So my biggest stopper is an 11 DMM offset or a 10 BD. |
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You could probably lose them if you want as more and more people seem to climb with just multiple sets of cams. At the same time, they are more light weight than cams, and can often take the place of cams at belays (as has been mentioned). Depending on what type of climbing you are doing, they are also far cheaper to leave behind if you have to bail and I would much rather rap off stoppers than say tricams (yikes!) |
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I have fist size WC hexes I take up with me every time because I love the sound of those cowbells. no lie. |
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I'm surprised that no one mentioned the obvious... It depends on the climb. If you are climbing a climb with a crack with a width that will take big nuts than take big nuts. |
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All cracks take big nuts...Just depends on the pucker factor. |
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Brian wrote:I'm surprised that no one mentioned the obvious... It depends on the climb. If you are climbing a climb with a crack with a width that will take big nuts than take big nuts.Agreed. |
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I prefer not to carry hexes anymore but, do stock the biggest stoppers (DMM's) when climbing multi pitch stuff at most areas. I tend to toss in a quick belay with stoppers if I can, and, save the cams for leading. Seems faster/more efficient to me. |
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Brian in SLC wrote:I prefer not to carry hexes anymoreWhy, out of curiosity? I know they're out of fashion, but they're versatile and bomber, if a little fiddly. They handle parallel cracks that nuts can't and they don't walk. There's no piece I'd rather fall on than my green Torque Nut. That aside, I stopped carrying the 3 largest nuts as well. |
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MTKirk wrote:3rd on the tri-cams. I don't carry any stoppers bigger than a pink tri-cam. The tri-cams cover more range and work in more places (including flares). So my biggest stopper is an 11 DMM offset or a 10 BD.Tri-cams! Just don't use the small black tri-cam passively. Depending on where I am climbing, I will carry black to blue, navy, or white. Much less weight than carrying another set of cams and more versatile, which on multi, the weight starts to matter. |
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I've climbed with a few people who leave #11 to #13 at home. I've seen one of my regular partners take the 2 nut biners and painstakingly re-rack all of them so that he can carry every other size for mixed, short or otherwise unnutworthy pitches. He usually ends up 40 grams lighter with all the sizes he doesn't want... Cough T-rizzle cough. |
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Do you find yourself placing them? Your answer should help you determine whether or not to carry them.. |
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coldatom wrote: Why, out of curiosity? I know they're out of fashion, but they're versatile and bomber, if a little fiddly. They handle parallel cracks that nuts can't and they don't walk. There's no piece I'd rather fall on than my green Torque Nut. That aside, I stopped carrying the 3 largest nuts as well.For parallel cracks, for speed and bomberness, I prefer cams. I like especially the wired hexes that are shorter wires as they carry well and if I'm going into the alpine, and, not carrying much including no cams, I'll usually toss a few of those in. But, standard rack, too fiddly like you mentioned for me. Super versatile, though. Tri-cams? Pain in the arse. Bomber gear, sure, but set them hard and watch your partner stuggle to clean. Ask the eyebrows at Looking Glass how easy they are to remove...ha ha. Great for mixed as they set well in an icey crack. Personal preference and what you get used to, mostly. Milage and local rock type too. |
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Brian in SLC wrote:Tri-cams? Pain in the arse. Bomber gear, sure, but set them hard and watch your partner stuggle to clean. Ask the eyebrows at Looking Glass how easy they are to remove...ha ha.There aren't many "fixed" tri-cams at the Glass, so I am not sure what you are referring to. Tri-cams are easy to clean if shown how to do it. If the tri-cam doesn't budge by hand, simply insert the carabiner attached to it between the wall and the sling (or use a nut tool to do the same thing). The tri-cam rotates backwards and loosens. The only tri-cam difficult to clean is the small white, unless you have sausage fingers. I'd also be wary of setting tri-cams hard while leading, you can easily blast yourself in the face or fall backwards if it comes loose. |
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i have an easier time cleaning tricams than nuts ... if you have issues cleaning tricams its likely due to lack of practice |