Mountain Project Logo

Crampon question

Original Post
Chris Freye · · Seattle · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 30

So I have searched the internet and have been unable to find the answer.

So obviously there are two kinds of crampon attachments for the front of your boot. Clip or pro and obviously you need to have the front welt to be able to fit pro styled crampons.

My question is that is there a difference between the two given an opportunity to use either. For example the Nepal Evo's have the front welt. Is there a significant difference between using the clips or the pros. Or is it a matter of preference?

sanz · · Pisgah Forest, NC · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 210
randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

Boots that accept "pro" crampons as you call them are stiffer and are generally good for vertical endeavors like ice climbing.

Boots that do not have the front step in compatability flex more and are good for general class II and III peaks where you are required to cross snow fields.

If most of your outdoor pursuits will not include technical climbing with ropes then go for a boot that flexes more and can hike to and up your goal.

If you plan on ice climbing, going up steep couloirs, mixed climbing, or class V peaks then maybe the stiffer type boot may be better.

This is a gross generalization. There will always be the "it depends" answer.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Seems there are alot of crampon attachment styles..comes down to whether you are in flexible or rigid frames, and if your boot is flexible or rigid. Old fashioned strap on crampons will go on just about anything. Those with toe bails and heel clips require a rand edge on the front and back of the boots...Good luck!

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

You can use either and be fine. I personally use the pro for vertical ice and the clip for more mountaineering endeavors.

My logic for the clip for mountaineering is that I can wear it with a multitude of different boots from snowboard to lightweight mountaineering which usually don't have a toe welt. Plus I also think that the clip are less prone to come off which is pretty key in those situations. They are also easier to put on since you don't have to worry about ice in the welt.

The pros generally are more technical and precise and come with the crampons that provide that.

Try rephrasing your search:
google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=le…

One thing I found strange though is I always called them strap-ons or newmatic which might be wrongly used. And the "pros" were step-ins or even clip-ins. When did this change? :oP

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Scott McMahon wrote:One thing I found strange though is I always called them strap-ons or newmatic which might be wrongly used. And the "pros" were step-ins or even clip-ins. When did this change? :oP
Newmatic is the Grivel name for hybrid crampons (which requires a heel welt). Grivel also makes the GSB binding crampon that works only w/ some Scarpa boots.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Newmatic is the Grivel name for hybrid crampons (which requires a heel welt).quote>

Ah that's right. Somehow I always heard it generically applied to strap crampons. Are they still making the GSB? That always seemed like a step in binding to me...never really took off. I'd be less likey to trust that tiny hole that could fill with debri and ice.

willeslinger · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

If you get the Petzl Lynx it doesn't matter, you can play around with both attachment styles with the same crampons and see which you like better. However, they are vertical front points. I prefer horizontal for all mountaineering and pure WI climbing applications, reserving the vert points for mixed. But that's just me, a lot of folks like horizontal points only in an alpine. Less technical setting.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Crampon question"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started