All Locations > Colorado > San Luis Valley > Rock Garden

California Crack

Name: California Crack
Rating: 2.9

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Rock Garden

L › R R › L A › Z

	28 K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Baby Bun Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Big Brett the Baker's Buddy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bottom Line, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Buffalo Chips S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bust A Move S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	California Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cetus V11 8A
	Come A Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Copacetic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Court Jester S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Crack House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Darla Does Buckwheat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Do the Right Thing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	DOA S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Double Trouble S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fed Ex S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Feet, Don't Fail Me Now T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Fine Young Cannibals S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Garden, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hanging Garden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Honeycomb S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hot Chocolate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	I+CN'? S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	It's a Schu-in S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jeremy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Jugalicious S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Just Do It S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Just Say No to Nancy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Killer Pillar, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ligneous Embracer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lycra-Phobia S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	My Kids Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ned's Highball aka Cyclops V3 6A PG13
	Ninos y Viejos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	No Honor Amongst Theives V6 7A
	Organic Gardening T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Otto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Palming the Porcupine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pantalones Perdidos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pardon My French S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Penal Code S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Pick Pocket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Pumping Pockets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Reckoning, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rocky Mountain Oysters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rude Mood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ryan's Frightmare (Big Jim) V2 5+ PG13
	Scratch 'n' Sniff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Shield of Achilles, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Slapstick S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Slinky + Escalator V11 8A
	Static Cling S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Super Crack V0 4 R
	Team Geritol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Terror, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Time Bandit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Time in Disguise S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	U2RNXS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Unknown V0 4 R
	Wallrus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Who Dunnit Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Ya Hoo Serious S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	You're Busted S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	Kevin Lindorff, 8/1984
Page Views:	1,565 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Jason Young on Oct 10, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE Details

Per A Lee: *ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE

The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.

The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.

Description

This is a trad-protected route that has a diverse set of holds (flakes, pockets, edges, etc.). There didn't really seem to be a well-defined crux. Some poor quality rock at the top detracts from the overall aesthetics of the route. Otherwise, this is a stellar line.

Location

This route is located to the right of another trad line with a wide fingers start leading to a chimney. Both of these trad lines are located to the right of "U2RNXS" on the tall, free-standing formation that is closest to the pullout for the Rock Garden.

Protection

Wired stoppers and cams to 2.5".

There is an anchor at the top consisting of two bolts that are nearly in-line with each other vertically but offset by an appropriate amount. The bolts each have welded cold-shuts that are linked by a section of chain which seems to offer only a single link to thread a rope through. I threaded both cold-shuts and lowered off with no problems.

Per A Lee: a 2-bolt ASCA Mussy hook anchor was updated and equipped by Nate Liles & SLVCA on 4/10/19.