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Routes in Ranger Station Rock
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4U2DO2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Barbara Bush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hercules T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Open Casket Funeral TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Owatafooliam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pegleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pirates Of The Carabiner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Polly Wants A Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ranger Rendezvous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Scaried Treasure T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Swain In The Breeze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Swain Lake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Swain Song T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Swatchbuckler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wall of 10,000 Holds T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | (TR) John Long, 1976, FL: Dale Bard, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 2,343 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A route the quality of which is the equal of any in the park. Extolled as a thin hands crack in guide books, I found this overhanging beauty more of a finger crack. Protection is abundant, but you have to hold on to place it. If you can make it through the crux to the pod just below the rim, you can eke out a rest. The finishing moves may not be the hardest on the route, but they are technical enough to wish you had the strength and endurance of a demigod.
I think Hercules is a more consistent crack route than Wanger Banger, its "grade mate" and perhaps pumpier.
I think Hercules is a more consistent crack route than Wanger Banger, its "grade mate" and perhaps pumpier.
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