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Routes in Ad. Arch Rock
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Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inner Sanctum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Klemens Escape T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell 5/70 FFA: Barry Bates, Steve Wunsch 1972 |
| Page Views: | 16,356 total · 80/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Jul 11, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is where it all began for the magical Valley grade of 5.11...Only makes sense why John Bachar made the first solo statement on this stellar line.
I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).
P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).
P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season). Place hand to fist size pieces in the crack in back using long slings and chimney upward passing some face holds. If you went right side in, then you'll have to do a tricky turn to the right and play off the double cracks as you squeeze up at the same time. The corner opens up above into a sort of alcove (where you could set a hanging belay out right)...At the top/left of the alcove and just right of the arete/prow is this flake type thing which you must jam a 5.10- move over using a not so secure hold. Once over that it's easy body flare to a big pod. Belay under the sweet looking clamshell corner crack.
(5.10)
P3. Its obvious what to do from here...Jam, stem and layaway the quickly narrowing crack which is good to the last drop. Increasingly thinning finger to tips locks in the slightly leaning corner make you strive for good body positioning to glide through the last move. (5.11-)
Rappel climbers right down Klemens Escape with a 70m rope. Two 33m rappels gets you to the ground. Or you can rap off Gripper with 2 50M ropes.
I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).
P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).
P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season). Place hand to fist size pieces in the crack in back using long slings and chimney upward passing some face holds. If you went right side in, then you'll have to do a tricky turn to the right and play off the double cracks as you squeeze up at the same time. The corner opens up above into a sort of alcove (where you could set a hanging belay out right)...At the top/left of the alcove and just right of the arete/prow is this flake type thing which you must jam a 5.10- move over using a not so secure hold. Once over that it's easy body flare to a big pod. Belay under the sweet looking clamshell corner crack.
(5.10)
P3. Its obvious what to do from here...Jam, stem and layaway the quickly narrowing crack which is good to the last drop. Increasingly thinning finger to tips locks in the slightly leaning corner make you strive for good body positioning to glide through the last move. (5.11-)
Rappel climbers right down Klemens Escape with a 70m rope. Two 33m rappels gets you to the ground. Or you can rap off Gripper with 2 50M ropes.
Photos
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