Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
The Edge of Horror
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Omega Buttress
|
|
Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4- Easy Snow |
|
|
Cardiac Arêtes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1 |
|
|
Man O' War (Ship's Prow Pillar) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Sherm's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,302 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Eastman on Jan 21, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Beta:
This climb is defined by exposed climbing off the deck, small fussy gear and asthetic climbing up a gorgeous arete. It can be done as one long rope stretching pitch or broken into two pitches.
Pitch 1
Start from large belay on second pitch of Dihedrals of Horror. The route ascends the knife blade arete to the right of D.O.H.. From the belay you have two options, an easier 5.9 hand crack on the left side of the wall or a more difficult 5.10+ start on the right. Heading up to a small ledge where a #3 camalot placement is crucial to prevent a ground fall. Move slightly right and then up a small corner system, some small .25-.50 placements can be found through here. Climb up the corner system to a piton, clip it and move right around arete to a lieback on a flack system. Move up through another small insecure corner system, staying on arete, and up onto small ledge.
Possible location for belay.
Pitch 2
Climb left off ledge up small seam to insecure holds on arete, clipping bolt. Continue up arete working small holds for another 20' to easier ground above. Continue up to ledge for next belay.
Pitch 1
Start from large belay on second pitch of Dihedrals of Horror. The route ascends the knife blade arete to the right of D.O.H.. From the belay you have two options, an easier 5.9 hand crack on the left side of the wall or a more difficult 5.10+ start on the right. Heading up to a small ledge where a #3 camalot placement is crucial to prevent a ground fall. Move slightly right and then up a small corner system, some small .25-.50 placements can be found through here. Climb up the corner system to a piton, clip it and move right around arete to a lieback on a flack system. Move up through another small insecure corner system, staying on arete, and up onto small ledge.
Possible location for belay.
Pitch 2
Climb left off ledge up small seam to insecure holds on arete, clipping bolt. Continue up arete working small holds for another 20' to easier ground above. Continue up to ledge for next belay.
Photos
- No Photos -
1 Comment