Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13

alpinerocket wrote:Hello all! How is Joes forming up? We are going to detour there for a day or two on the way to Ouray.

Went to Joe's today. Climbed CCC Falls & Donorcicle. Everything we saw is forming up nicely. It was - 17 F when we started so everything was a bit brittle, but we had a great day of climbing. It was -24 F when we passed the Dirtcicle in Price. Chilly!





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No pics, but Santaquin was in on Sunday. Angel of Fear collapsed recently and washed an avalanche across the trail. ACT and Candlestick were both in good conditions (the top out to Candlestick actually seems better-ish now). Squashhead is in with thick though chandeliered ice on P1. P1 on Backoff is a snow ramp and P2 is in thick.

Seems I've managed to leave both of my copies of Ice Climbing Utah at the cabin; doing me no good watching conditions here in VA. Can anyone remind me what is the ratings range at Joe's again? What is CCC rated? Any nice 3s in that area to cut my slow-season-start teeth on?

Digital Ice Guide. Joe's Valley Ice.

mountainproject.com/v/ice/1…

Any updates on conditions in Provo Canyon (Bridalveil, Stairway, etc)?
Thanks!
Eric.

Thanks for the replies! Some say Joes is good some say Huntington. Might hit both but Joes looks better after this week.

Looking at the raiting and photos on MP of pitches 1-3 of CCC, which pitch gets the WI5 rating? Or, is it the thin secondary pillar I can see on pitch 3?

RonB wrote:Looking at the raiting and photos on MP of pitches 1-3 of CCC, which pitch gets the WI5 rating? Or, is it the thin secondary pillar I can see on pitch 3?

No pitch on CCC falls is WI5. Nothing is tall enough on that route. Lots of shorter vertical to near vertical curtains to give you a workout though.

Sorry confused CCC with Melty Way 4-5. Should be using my glasses...

Provo Canyon conditions? Anyone? Thks!

Eric and Lucie wrote:Provo Canyon conditions? Anyone? Thks!

Most climbs are in and in good shape.

The way Bridal Veil Falls is flowing makes belaying for Bridal Veil Left pretty sketchy. Saw a lot of rockfall there while on White Nightmare.

Climbed Stairway To Heaven in Provo last night. All but one set of anchors above the apron were iced in, nowhere to be seen. Ice was a odd mix of REALLY hard brittle ice and the wettest ice I've ever climbed.

Had a great day down in Joe's on 1/16/12. The Ice was Fantasic

There was some fun stuff leading back into Deadbolt

Deadbolt was great

CCC falls first pitch

CCC falls Second Pitch

I think this is the Spear of Fear from the road.... but if not, whatever it is it was Huge.

We did Climb the Donorcicle also but seeing there we picture post 3 days ago it's pointless to post another picture.

First Pitch of Baby Steps was Fat!!

Second Pitch of Baby Steps was in with nice root rest if you get pumped

Fourth Pitch of Baby Steps was Money!

"Baby Steps" can be found .3 miles past the 6 mile marker in Joe's as you're driving in. After seeing some ice up a drainage we got out to hike up to it and inspect its size and found three sections: a short vertical step with a tree branch crossing the top which you have to climb under, a low angle ramp, and then the longest of the 3 steps and the reason for getting out of your car at all. These steps had the most pliable ice we swung at all day, and despite their short sizes the drainage was pretty fun to cruise up. It's worth stopping to do on your way out--it will take half an hour or less. Directly across the street from the small drainage are two pipes, one of which had a super thick and stumpy flow of ice coming out of it.

Went in search of Ice and found this in Tolcat Cayon on Olympus.
The route is Boreas

Nice, Mooner. How was the hike?

The Fang, Provo Canyon. It's in great shape.

Matt, awesome photo of Sam! mountainproject.com/images/…

Flippin AWESOME! I am on my way.

surprised frozen assets hasn't gotten gangbanged, it's sure to be in