Sunny winter cliffs away from people

I was wondering if Owl's Cliff gets enough sun to dry out in the recent weather. Does anyone know about single pitch ice climbs?

Rumney has a couple of sunny cliffs with easy approaches that are great for rock climbing during a snowy winter... but because of this, it can get crowds. I'm looking for alternatives.

Sundown was on my radar but I think it's in the shade most of the time. What about the other crags along the Kanc? Perhaps the Wave Wall? How about Lost Horizon or Woodchuck?

Any suggestions for some dry trad or sport in the < 5.12-- range?

I haven't been out to Owls to climb in the real winter, but Chris and Ward say that the 5.10 wall on the right cliff gets blasted if the sun is out. The trick is getting out there. You may be best snowshoeing in the way Jerry describes in the guide and fixing a line at the top to rap in and jumar out. The problem is the short days this time of year. Also, there are slabs below that if covered with snow you could get on without knowing. By the time you get in you are not going to get much climbing done before you will need to be heading back out. It is sunniest in the morning and early afternoon, then goes into the shade. One advantage of the 5.10 wall is you only need quickdraws.

Personally, I wouldn't bother unless you are just into the adventure of it, in which case I would go in the day before and bivy some where. The left cliff, from my experiences in the very late fall, is colder and windier

Agree with Mark on this one, getting out to greens/Owls with bikes ,in summer isn't that bad... winter makes it a real approach.
Going out too check things out is coolthough.

Go out to the Captain,, that will be an adventure

Ive been driving by Rand mtn lately and that looks nice and dry from a distance. It sits up high, faces south, is single pitch and wouldnt be nearly the epic that owls cliff or especially the captain would be in getting to. Also near that is Longstack Precipice. At about 170' and south facing it could be a great winter crag. These are both in the new durham section listed under nh climbing category. Each of these are pretty mellow approaches of about half an hour depending on trail conditions

Someone also mentioned The Beach over in the Welch/Dickey area. If that gets the sun that I think it does, that could be a really fun outing.

I don't mind recon sessions as long as their is /some/ prospect to potentially climb. I am a little wary of being on snow covered slab and have it slide from underneath me. :X

Jason: Is Longstack visible from the road / parking area described on its MP page?

Try J Tree, Suicide/tahquitz, or pinnacles
;-)

I forgot about Bear Notch rd being closed in the winter, so Jerry's higher aproach would be out. No Owl's unless you have a snowmobile to take you in most of the way :)

Maine and the southern stuff is probably your best bet. Durrell Mnt.(whiteface) might be worth checking. I can't remember how much it seeped, but it is south facing. I remember slogging in in fresh waist deep snow with no snowshoes once. We didn't get any climbing in that day, but smoked a lot and got a good workout.

Where does Bear Notch Rd close exactly? Would Mt Oscar be an option? I'm guessing that whole area will just be covered in snow if it isn't pretty vertical.

LOL @ the Durrell slog. A day like that doesn't sound that bad. Maybe I'll just be lazy and stay "local", spending a day at Prudential.

Depending on your grade the Lookout Wall at Sundown may be dry....its in the sun much of the day and the spot is amazing, you won't have any people there. Mixed routes mostly gear, a little spicy...

Ya Jeffrey, I believe you can get a pretty good view of longstack at or very near the parking area described as option #1. If thats not good enough, you'll get a great one on the hike in before you have to do any uphill hiking

um... Shagg! We used to climb all winter long up at Shagg. Super sunny and warm when the wind isn't whipping up. And if you're not adverse to the drive. Central CT Trap rock heats up a ton in the winter and u can get alcoves that get up to 60 deg in 20-30 deg temps. East Peak is worth it for a day (trad/tr).

Shagg was on our mind. Closer was Jockey's Cap -- is that place fun and dry usually?

We ended up exploring White's Ledge, IME Crag, and Pick of the Litter. We mostly just went stomping around in the snow. White's Ledge looks like a great spot -- I can't wait to check out Endeavor when it dries out a bit.