What are the best sandbagged routes you can think of? Sport, Trad, and Bouldering

camhead wrote: Ok, now this is the type of trivial bickering that I love on climbing forums! Ahem. Zealous totally felt soft to me; it just had too many great horizontal rests. Rapscallions seems way more stout. And don't feel too bad about the first pitch of Castleton's NF; it's solid 11-.

We are seriously opposite climbers man! How did we not figure this out at the City? Maybe it was because you spent too much time peeling me off of the ground!

I just remember whipping at the crux of Zealous more than once. It was like a dynamic move to a finger lock or something... But this was a while ago. I was probably just in over my head.

I did Rapscallions around the same time though and was OK. I actually think I said at the time that it wasn't any harder than Four Sheets.

Again with Looking Glass - I didn't have any issues with Cornflake Crack but fell twice while following Safari Jive and ended with a very bloody finger.

We should team up to free a big wall and each lead the routes that are hard for the other. Except that first we'd have to figure out which routes are hard for the other...

sanz wrote: And how can we forget Zombie Woof? I don't know if its really harder than 10b, but I don't think anyone has ever gotten on that route fully prepared for the task at hand.

Classic.

Princess Mia wrote:Umph Slot in Boulder Canyon....... 5.8.......haha

+1

I was deliberately sandbagged in the Valley when my partner suggested doing a "long, classic HVS* crack climb" knowing full well that was not a completely honest description.

If you haven't already guessed it was the Steck Salathe on Sentinel Rock - mountainproject.com/v/steck…

Thankfully, we only got benighted on the descent about 20 minutes from the road and then got a lift most of the way back to Camp 4 from a friendly Park Ranger. Although, it is probably worth adding that we were so utterly exhausted we then had to take two days off from climbing to recover...

[*For those who are not aware the UK grade of HVS is equivalent to hard 5.8 or 5.9]

burlap submariner wrote:Shockleys Ceiling 5.6 Gunks

Shockley's at 5.6 is a frickin' joke! Harder than some 5.8s I've been on. Also, Carey's Corner at Ragged in CT (5.7, feels more like 5.9).

Ryan Williams wrote: We are seriously opposite climbers man! How did we not figure this out at the City? Maybe it was because you spent too much time peeling me off of the ground! I just remember whipping at the crux of Zealous more than once. It was like a dynamic move to a finger lock or something... But this was a while ago. I was probably just in over my head. I did Rapscallions around the same time though and was OK. I actually think I said at the time that it wasn't any harder than Four Sheets. Again with Looking Glass - I didn't have any issues with Cornflake Crack but fell twice while following Safari Jive and ended with a very bloody finger. We should team up to free a big wall and each lead the routes that are hard for the other. Except that first we'd have to figure out which routes are hard for the other...

Hehe, the way it sounds, you'll get all the corners, and I'll get all the splitters. Unless they suddenly thin down to Shredded Wheat width.

The Stoned Master wrote:Quite a few between the Gunks and Seneca alone but I`m saying Soler 5.7 on the East Face, South Peak, Seneca. The new guidebook(s) will be putting it as 5.9 possibly 5.9+.

I don't know. I onsight soloed Solar and while it was full value .7, it was no .9 I would have noticed that for sure, given the circumstances. Classic route with a heads up final pitch though.

Generally speaking, most of the well traveled routes at Seneca had their grades corrected with the last edition. Except for West Pole. That thing is silly hard for the grade. The .8 direct finish is easier than the roof crux on the regular route.

camhead wrote: Yeah, I've heard that, too, and it seems that I'm the only person that thinks Shredded Wheat was really hard. Maybe I was just having a bad day, but it totally shut me down, and I'm usually pretty good at fingercracks.

I second it as a sandbag. If you're a 5 ft. female with little baby fingers (as my partner does, who onsighted)then it's probably spot on. I couldn't get more than a single digit on my pinky in at the crux. Failed all over it.

The Origin Nine Corners Lake NY. Says 4 yeah right

The Ummph slot is only 5.9+, right?!?!?

The hollow flake pitch on el cap.

Speaking of Seneca:

I can't comment on Soler, but I did a route there many years ago rated at 5.4 in the old guide (Expotition?). Barnes guide upgrades it to 5.7. That's quite the sandbag for a new leader in EBs.

North Carolina will never flood.

Lover's Leap felt pretty snadbagged. Not to say anything negative about a stellar crag like Lover's.

Second Lover's Leap (at least my one route there). I went out to climb Corrugation Corner and my wife wanted to warm up on something small on the Hogsback. I pitched off a 5.6 (can't remember the name), took a 25fter and fractured my heel. I didn't get to climb anything else on that trip.

Anything that says '5.9-' at Devils Lake is probably a 10b or more. Best of luck on that slick quartzite.

Black is Brown in Yose. Listed as 5.8 but more like 5.10.

Almost everything on CT traprock.....and Vultures at Sundown is the hardest 10d I've ever tried.....

Hard to Believe on Blair (2?) vedauwoo. 10b?! Amazing line, don't think anyone does it though

Last pitch of the Ames Ice Hose. I'm still pumped.
(I know the title is Sport, Trad and Bouldering, but I could not resist...)

Another vote for Mother 1. Cello and Javelin (both 10+) in the Cracked Canyon are pretty damn hard, IMO. Ursula (5.5) and Broken Sling (5.8) in the Gunks.