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Bouldering my first v10

Original Post
bowshaaa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 25

Recently I was able to achieve my climbing goal last month of bouldering a v10 problem (resevoir rocks in Great Barrington, MA). I was stoked to achieve this because of all the hard work and training I put in to accomplish this goal. I plan to shoot a training video of the training exercises and progression routines I perform to get finger strength and total overall strength.

Here is a short video (including the v10 I climbed) of the trip:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEXgGlc4qTY

details of the trip can be found here:

bowshaaa's blog

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

not a short video, and there is no need to double post

bowshaaa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 25

Deleted the other post due to this being more of a trip report. I guess short is a subjective term then.

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

Did you do all of these in one day?

Nate_801 · · St. George · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 105

Cool vid. Thanks for sharing!!!

JasonT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 250

Good send and vid Bowshaa. Dont listen to the haters. Denny, the 5.10 routes youve ticked are nowhere near v10. Know that.

Ryan Hill · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30

Thanks for sharing. I'm having a hard time imagining the dedication it takes to climb those grades. Congratulations on the send!

bowshaaa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 25
JasonJNSmith wrote:Did you do all of these in one day?
No didn't do them all in a day. Pressure drop was done on a different day. The sleet that was coming down (you can see at the second boulder) turned to rain when i was working on it.
bowshaaa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 25
JasonT wrote:Good send and vid Bowshaa. Dont listen to the haters. Denny, the 5.10 routes youve ticked are nowhere near v10. Know that.
Thanks for checking it out!
anonymous Simpson · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1

Good work. Looking forward to seeing the training video.

Dylan Weldin · · Ramstein, DE · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,715
beaneeeezz
Bouldering stereotype upheld: 100% beanie coverage!!!

Nice send though bow-chicka-wow-wow!

I look forward to your training insights as well
bowshaaa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 25

@Dylan Weldin Didn't actually notice that until you posted! You know climbers always have bed head they're trying to hide!

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960

Question... on the fotwa boulder - I always thought the right hand side of that had a stand start called the Jerk or something like that... any ideas?

Alex Whitman · · Chattanooga · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 440
Dylan Weldin wrote: Bouldering stereotype upheld: 100% beanie coverage!!! Nice send though bow-chicka-wow-wow! I look forward to your training insights as well
Umm... No. They have shirts on. Everyone wears hats. You're dumb if you dont wear a hat when it is cold out. Now if they kept said beanies on but removed shirts then we would have some quality bro-uldering.
bowshaaa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 25
CaptainMo wrote:Question... on the fotwa boulder - I always thought the right hand side of that had a stand start called the Jerk or something like that... any ideas?
There is a stand start where you are matched on the horizontal razor crimp of fotowa but I was told that is the "super stand start". To the left of fotowa is a problem called pistol grip and on the right of fotowa is pressure drop. Ive never known of any other problems than these on this boulder.
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

Enjoyed the video. Definitely post more.

bowshaaa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 25
Logan Schiff wrote:Enjoyed the video. Definitely post more.
Thanks! Hope to have more coming soon
S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20
JasonT wrote:Good send and vid Bowshaa. Dont listen to the haters. Denny, the 5.10 routes youve ticked are nowhere near v10. Know that.
bouldering videos will never be inspiring. climb higher.
Jonathan Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

From my early teens to my mid 20s i lived and breathed skateboarding, but was always annoyed by the street vs vert wars. Then i found climbing, which i love even more, but was soon introduced to boulder vs roped vs bolted vs natural vs bolted on rappel vs bolted on lead wars. Sigh...i guess it exists everywhere. Who knows? Maybe the build-a-ship-in-a-bottle guys have schooner vs clipper wars that we have no idea about...

user id · · SMOGden, UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 75

spray.

Jonathan Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0
user id wrote:spray.
What am i spraying about, the fact that i spent such a long time riding around on little pieces of plywood with plastic wheels or that i'm still annoyed by people who argue about which aspect of their pursuit is more legit and enjoyable?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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