Boots (Nepal Evo) and toe banging
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Let me start by saying these boots are probably not too small. They are a full size larger than my normal shoe size (43.5 instead of 42.5) |
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CWood wrote:I don't use the tongue inserts because I assume the volume they add would impede circulation and make my feet colder.The inserts are designed to do exactly what you are asking. If you don't tie your boots too tight you won't have problems with circulation. I have nepal evo's and the insert works perfectly. |
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Evan S wrote: The inserts are designed to do exactly what you are asking. If you don't tie your boots too tight you won't have problems with circulation. I have nepal evo's and the insert works perfectly.Huh... I should have figured that one out on my own. Thanks - will give it a try this weekend and see how it goes. |
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Let me start by saying that the relationship between your street shoe size and your boot size is pretty much irrelevant. Those conversion charts just get you in the right range and a 43.5 from one manufacturer is likely to fit differently than the same size from another (can be up to a full size). You need to figure out what the right size is for you in Sportiva. For example, I wear a 46 in Sportiva (or even 46.5 in some models) and 45.5 in Scarpa - both Italian-made boots. |
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Kevin Craig wrote:Let me start by saying that the relationship between your street shoe size and your boot size is pretty much irrelevant. Those conversion charts just get you in the right range and a 43.5 from one manufacturer is likely to fit differently than the same size from another (can be up to a full size). You need to figure out what the right size is for you in Sportiva. For example, I wear a 46 in Sportiva (or even 46.5 in some models) and 45.5 in Scarpa - both Italian-made boots. In addition to what's been suggested, if you only occasionally bang your toe, you could learn to curl your toes slightly when you kick into the ice (seriously, I do this) or have a competent boot-maker bump out the toe box a bit.I actually do curl my toes, and only bang them sometimes when I forget to. I figure the sizing is a little different, but I tried size 44s on in the store as well and seemed to have the same problem when test-kicking stuff. Admittedly not climbing actual ice with them makes it slightly less valid, but I figure if my toes can reach the front, it's because my heel is coming away from the back, not because there isn't enough room at the front. Tried them this weekend with the tongue inserts and new insoles. I get enough heel lift with the laces cranked down pretty tight that heel blisters are going to happen if used for long enough. I can't remember how I prevented this in the past - probably liner socks plus thicker socks (smartwool mountaineering). As for positives, they were plenty warm yesterday (though the weather was warm) and my feet were 100% dry after a thoroughly soaking wet day in which every other piece of gear I own was drenched through. |
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Just a word of caution. I had a pair of Nepal Evos that ended up having the interior liner fold in on the toe-box. It's hard to explain, but basically the materials that make up the insulation and everything else behind the rubber rand/toecap bubbled inward. |
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I got rid of a pair of nepal evo's because of this issue. I tried almost everything including the tongue inserts, thinner and thicker socks, toe curling, cutting my toenails super short. The boots were big enough, just didn't fit the top of my foot well enough to prevent this. (I could limit the issue by tightening my boots but that cut off circulation and was also not a solution) I suggest to everyone who asks about bootfitting to kick something hard when trying on ice climbing boots to determine if this is going to be an issue because it really really sucks. |