Climbing Recommendations in Tucson Area

Hello,

I will be arriving in Tucson tomorrow to visit friends for 9 days and plan on getting my climb on while I'm around. I've spent a fair amount of time scoping out climbs here on MP but wanted to get some local input on where the best climbing is this time of the year. I imagine there is plenty more than what has been posted on MP so far.

I am interested in spending some of my time cragging sport routes in the 5.10-5.11 range and also doing some cruiser 5.7-5.8 multi-pitch trad lines as well. That said, if there is some absolutely sick bouldering in the area that I would be a chump to pass up, I am all ears. I'd be looking at V3-V5.

I will be driving a dinky rental vehicle so an off road endeavor probably would not work. Also, once I arrive, is there a guide book that I should pick up?

Thank you all for the help!

No responses yet? I'll throw some ideas in. We got a lot of threads like for Tucson this time of year, so I guess everyone has a little beta fatigue.

For 5.10-11 sport climbing, Windy Point is a great area, assuming it is not too cold or windy.The next few days when the weather is in the 50's it might be a bit chilly, but coming from WI it might not bother you too much. There are a bunch of classic 5.11's - Just Do It, Ariona Flyways, Steve's Arete, Holey Moley, to name a few - and a bunch of good 5.10's around Windy Point. Things are a little spread out, but not too hard to find with Squeezing The Lemmon guidebook or mountain project beta.

Another area that is good if it warms back up to the 60s would be Milagrosa. A good concentration of 10's and 11's on good rock in a scenic canyon.

If it is going to be chilly, Sun Spots is a good option. There are a bunch of fun climbs there from 5.8 to 5.12, with some good 10s and a pretty classic 11 (Solar E Clips).

Forgotten Wall is nice and sunny, with some nice long routes.

Gates Pass is a cool bouldering spot, mostly for the scenery and sunsets, but there are some fun moderate problems in the v3-5 range. Molino Basin and Hairpin have some good bouldering in that range as well.

^^^ HAAA!

Go to Cochise Stronghold, preferably the west side. It might be tricky to drive all the way to the end of the road in a dinky rental, but you can easily make it to the Sheepshead area, which has some excellent trad and sport (or at least sport-y) stuff at a variety of grades, with a moderate approach. (I was recently there over Christmas .)