All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Cathedral Spire… > Poe Buttress

Prequel to the Sequel

Name: Prequel to the Sequel
Rating: 4.0

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13

Routes in Poe Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Terrapin Station T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
	Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA:	Matt Reeser & Dave Montgomery, 1-9-13
Page Views:	2,432 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Monty on Jan 9, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures

The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…

Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.

Description

It's so cool to think that this route has been sitting in plain sight, just waiting for somebody motivated enough to claim it. This is a beautiful pitch that demands focus until the very end.

Prequel to the Sequel is the direct start to the 2nd pitch of the Edge of Fright but also has its own steep headwall finish. From the large belay ledge in the middle of the Poe Buttress, climb directly above the bolted anchor to a seam that starts 15 feet up. Slab and face climb this seam past a pin (11+ PG-13) and some fiddley gear to a jug rest. Calm your head, then climb a tips crack that dead ends at a steep wall. Crimp and face climb the seam through the steep wall (crux), with a hard to place nut that eventually gives way to the twin cracks of Edge of Fright. Follow the twin cracks for 35 feet until it is possible to switch to the left crack and power out the steep headwall finale (11+).