Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13

vanman798 wrote:Ryan, perhaps you are referring to "playmate"? See mountainproject.com/v/playm…

No, that's not it, but this is now on my list, looks like fun.
The area I'm talking about is an actual waterfall, and not just a drainage. Here is a picture from a hundred yards away. I found a few pitons in cracks near the base of the falls.

Unknown falls on NW face of Cascade Mt.

Ryan Hamilton wrote: No, that's not it, but this is now on my list, looks like fun. The area I'm talking about is an actual waterfall, and not just a drainage. Here is a picture from a hundred yards away. I found a few pitons in cracks near the base of the falls.

Found it, it's called Fudgepacker
summitpost.org/fudgepacker/…

Just went to Joe's for two days, conditions are great! Should still be good by the weekend, and hopefully longer!
(Original pics aren't sideways, mp flipped them for some reason)

CCC is in, top curtain is in fat (was a little wet at 4pm), no pics!

Donorcicle is in fat, cauliflower hookfest almost all the way up
Pillar on the right was a firehose

donorcicle 1/7/12

Climbed Bushdiver, lived up to its name...but definitely in fat- notably 2 columns around WI3

bushdiver first column
bushdiver p2

Deadbolt is also in all the way, we only did the first ~60' column but I'd suppose the rest is also in (approach was wet though!)

deadbolt p1

Amphitheater is almost in, getting a lot of sun, and Wolfenstein is definitely NOT in

Go get it!

max huecksteadt wrote:...Donorcicle is in fat, cauliflower hookfest almost all the way up Pillar on the right was a firehose .... Go get it!

looks super fun!! enjoy!

Climbed on the Scruffy Band today in LCC. Great conditions with thick ice up the middle of the main scruffy band. The WI 4 pillar at the top is in good fat conditions as well.

Main Scruffy Band

Upper Pillar in excellent conditions

Next stop Utah! But for the moment here is some of New Hampshire's ice this season, if your out this way. Could be a phat season.

Falls area north of N Conway, discovered by George Hurley (WI 3+/4+). I think visiting Jeff Lowe put up an M8 on opposite wall. Fun day of cragging; 1.5 mi gentle hike in.

Frankenstein area with loads to climb. Standard route 2/3 pitches of WI 3/4. People up in the cave gives foreshorten perspective.

jspitzer wrote:Climbed on the Scruffy Band today in LCC. Great conditions with thick ice up the middle of the main scruffy band. The WI 4 pillar at the top is in good fat conditions as well.

Uhh, you meant WI 3 pillar...ha ha.

WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres

WI3: Sustained 70 degree with possible long bulges of 80-90 degrees; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws.

3. Sustained 70 - 80 degres ice, usually thick and solid. May
contain short, steep sections, but will have good resting
places and offer good protection and belays.

The steep bit on that pillar is maybe 6-8 feet long?

Of course none of that applies to Cody WY or Bozeman MT. They seem to make up their own scale. I climbed a WI 2+ in Cody and the book said it was, "Not worth the hike".
Kevin

Brian in SLC wrote: Uhh, you meant WI 3 pillar...ha ha.

Ya, it's hard to say looking at the pic, and not being on the pillar, but it looks 3ish at the moment to me. I just did a 20ft narrow WI3+ pillar out here in the east that was 80+ degrees, and a dead vertical WI4 with 20+ft sections, and would say they looked harder than the Scruffy pillar pic. Just the same it looks like a fun airy climb, and I hope its up when I get out there later this month.

Stewart Falls, January 5

Hey Brian Smoot!
Was that you up there on Stewarts on 5 January Saturday with a party of three? I didn't recognize you the way everyone was so bundled up. Cheers!

Yes, conditions were good!...we climbed all 4 pitches.

Willard Canyon Falls-in

Matt how was Willard Falls? That top section formed up well?

Nobody has said anything about it but, has anybody noticed the headlamp frozen in the ice on The Scruffy Band. If you go in the dark you can see the headlamp because the light is on. At least it was still on Monday.

chadnuesmeyer wrote:...headlamp frozen in the ice on The Scruffy Band. If you go in the dark you can see the headlamp because the light is on..

Nice, night climbing!

Hi all,

Whomever has visited the Provo Canyon area recently may have gotten a parking warning. I visited with a enthusiastic Utah Country Sheriff; who enjoys to get out just like the rest of us. He had been in the middle of writing a few in the parking lot of Upper Falls; when I ran into him.

Please don't park in front of the gates (Which is clearly Marked) or you will get a ticket.

He mentioned this would be the last day of warning; towing and impounding are the next steps.

Please be mindful of what this might mean if there is some emergency to get back into those areas.

Rob

Ice is in down south

Huntington

Wonderwall

Hello all! How is Joes forming up? We are going to detour there for a day or two on the way to Ouray.