Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Anthony Anagnostou, Joanne Urioste. May 2006 |
Page Views: | 2,349 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 23, 2011 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Hueco Thanks climbs the left of two prominent crack/chimney systems in the Sand Castle face. It's a gentle trad romp to the summit of the sand castle subsidiary face, with an easy single-rap descent down Ten Minute Shift.
p1) start on the far left side of the Armatron slab. 3rd class a few yards left to a stance in a dish and belay there. climb left and up through intricate routefinding to the chimney. belay at a good stance at the bush. ~170', ~5.7
Note: you can do a more aesthetic, and more direct, first pitch by starting up the first pitch of Sand Castle and stepping left to the bush/chimney belay, but it is distinctly harder.
p2) chimney up, past the overhang (route crux), and continue up the crack to belay beneath an alcove. ~120', ~5.7
p3) stem up the steep alcove and follow the crack up a juggy hueco'd pitch to the top. belay easiest with thin-hand size cams. ~160', ~5.7
p1) start on the far left side of the Armatron slab. 3rd class a few yards left to a stance in a dish and belay there. climb left and up through intricate routefinding to the chimney. belay at a good stance at the bush. ~170', ~5.7
Note: you can do a more aesthetic, and more direct, first pitch by starting up the first pitch of Sand Castle and stepping left to the bush/chimney belay, but it is distinctly harder.
p2) chimney up, past the overhang (route crux), and continue up the crack to belay beneath an alcove. ~120', ~5.7
p3) stem up the steep alcove and follow the crack up a juggy hueco'd pitch to the top. belay easiest with thin-hand size cams. ~160', ~5.7
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