The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Any word on tenmile ice and avi conditions? Looking to go there tomorrow.

Thanks!

Can the north face of longs hold enough snow to 'lanche? It is on the most dangerous aspect for the problem we have right now.

Rick McL wrote: Nina, Hi. We got the name "Cotton Balls" In Jack Roberts guide book "Colorado Ice" volume 1 on page 131. I beleive that it was unnamed until Jack gave the route this designation at the time he wrote the book. The climb is a few hundred yards west of "Cotton Picker & Cotton Mouth", both a mile and a half up canyon from the mighty "Sherman Climb" in Sherman CO, 20 miles west of Lake City, CO.

Thanks guys! Found it now in the book. Hope to check it out when we are in Lake City in two weeks...

Speaking of Lake City, does the ice park have climable ice yet? Is it open? Thanks.

@Phil: The North Face can definitely hold enough snow to slide, it's a popular ski descent and I've been up there post-holing up to my thighs in places. Wind slabs can form really quickly with the wind that Longs gets up there.

Having said that, I don't know how OFTEN it slides, and looking at the RMNP webcam the cables descent looks pretty dry.

nps.gov/romo/photosmultimed…

Hey Darren, I talked to Lake City Visitor Center a few days ago and they said that there is ice at thd park and the farming keeps going, so Im guessing yes...

Does anyone have any beta on Big Thompson Canyon conditions? I was thinking of getting a short day in next Thursday. Thanks!

I didn't see any ice as I was driving up the Big Thompson 12/29, and the upper and lower flows are absolutely bone dry.

Climbed again at Lincoln falls today, did bowling alley. At the top of the 2nd pitch a giant slab broke loose and rained suitcase size ice and a lot of water down onto the trees below. The very top to the right of the anchors is very hollow and water is rushing under it. Stay to the left on the 2nd pitch and the ice is good but don't go right.

Darren & Nina,
Hi.
I was in Lake City Ice Park last week and we were only able to lead one route. It was thin.....everywhere.
I would wait a couple of weeks before deciding to make it a "destination". They will probably have it in good shape for their Ice Fest the weekend of February 9th. There are sposors this year so it should be a grade above past years. Though I must say that the party at the Packer Bar after last years comp was unrivaled. I couldn't get my crampons on the next day.

Not that anybody cares but cottonballs, cuba gulch, and cataract is awesome climbing and I would imagine all in (climbed Sherman Oct 31). The stuff in the black canyon mountainproject.com/v/blue-… is looking really good. Blue Mesa smear is in, chipeta is in, blue balls is probably in, Curecanti Monster is shaping up fat but could use a few weeks.

Glenwood falls and Hidden falls in Glenwood Canyon are fat right now. Cold temps in the morning and sunny afternoons are good for the former to a point..... The sun hits the top of Glenwood Falls a bit before 10 AM.

Hidden Falls early January, 2013.

Glenwood Falls, early January, 2013.

clay meier wrote:Not that anybody cares but cottonballs, cuba gulch, and cataract is awesome climbing and I would imagine all in (climbed Sherman Oct 31). The stuff in the black canyon mountainproject.com/v/blue-… is looking really good. Blue Mesa smear is in, chipeta is in, blue balls is probably in, Curecanti Monster is shaping up fat but could use a few weeks.

Clay,
I care. Thanks for the beta on the Curecanti Monster. I want that.

Climbed Silk Road this morning. Still in. Snow & "ice" were less than amazing - a fair amount of failing under body weight. Lots of hot hot crampon (and palm) on slab action.

What we though to be the upper crux - pulling onto the East Face proper by a small tree - appeared to have very little ice. I lost sack and continued up the gulley, finishing the last pitch and a bit along the gulley's far right hand side.

Double rack to #2 worked pretty well. Used 2 small nuts. Didn't need the #4. Little pro on the 1st pitch, used most of the rack on the 2nd,not much needed (but its there if you want it) on the 3rd/3.25th

Darren D. wrote:Speaking of Lake City, does the ice park have climable ice yet? Is it open? Thanks.

Lots of hoses were turned on as of 1/2/13, so some routes were wet but we still climbed several routes. I thought it was well worth a day and there's plenty of other ice in the area.



Climbed Chipeta today- great shape but my partner remarked that it was a little steeper than "normal" right now.

Phil Lauffen wrote:Can the north face of longs hold enough snow to 'lanche? It is on the most dangerous aspect for the problem we have right now.

If you look at the N face of longs this time of year you'll probably notice that there is little if any snow at all. It will, on the other hand start loading with snow as spring moves in. Just look up there before you go.

Climbed The Crypt in RMNP yesterday. Not too bad of a hike in on the (climber's) right side rocks. Avy conditions very manageable/minimal. Climb is in decent enough shape for a few laps. A bit chandeliered/hard icicle runnels etc. Like so many ice routes in the Park...a lotta humpin' for so little thumpin'...as always though, it was nice to swing tools on a sunny day.

Beagle wrote: If you look at the N face of longs this time of year you'll probably notice that there is little if any snow at all. It will, on the other hand start loading with snow as spring moves in. Just look up there before you go.

Just about anytime there is snow on the north face that you are standing-on, there is high avalanche potential as the entire slope is unsupported and and perfect avalanche terrain.

Snowpack makes little difference with this perfect avalanche terrain, especially with the Diamond as a terrain trap (pack a parachute).

As Beagle said, just take a look up there and if your route above the rock/ice pitches involves snow travel, avi potential is high. Late spring/summer (May/June) is about the only time it will bond for a while, if we get the snow.

Eli Helmuth wrote: Just about anytime there is snow on the north face that you are standing-on, there is high avalanche potential as the entire slope is unsupported and and perfect avalanche terrain. Snowpack makes little difference with this perfect avalanche terrain, especially with the Diamond as a terrain trap (pack a parachute). As Beagle said, just take a look up there and if your route above the rock/ice pitches involves snow travel, avi potential is high. Late spring/summer (May/June) is about the only time it will bond for a while, if we get the snow.

RMNP moved their Longs Peak cam and gives a pretty sweet view of the NF and Diamond now as well as clear views of Kieners and some lower east face routes.

Heard the Des and Spiral are in good shape but steeper than normal as of yesterday. I want to go up to Vail Sunday and drop a TR on Spiral but I have only led 2+ and dont feel ready for"steeper than normal" 4-. I heard about a chimney that leads up to the top. Any info on how I can get up there without leading?