Climber Gets injured on Mr. Meanor 5-8+ Trad mixed route JailHouse Mt. Lemmon

Lesson = Don't be a dumbass.

One doesn't necessarily have to be a dumbass to get too exposed and take a fall.

Dragon wrote:dan you climb?

You created a account today to ask me if I climb and know my name even though its not mentioned. Therefore...

Lets not get all of our panties in a bunch here. I fell, learned a lesson about climbing the hard way and that is that. How and why does not matter. Who is at fault does not matter, nor does Kelsey's wording of her experience "pulling" etc. I think we all get what she meant. Shit happens. It happened so fast she cant probably recall what or how she reacted. Anyone questioning her actions or talking shit should worry about their own business. I dont even know how or why I got sucked into this Bullshit conversation. But thanks Rocky Mountain High for keepin it positive.

Lets all talk about our ego's and what we would have done instead. Wait I think that already happened.

You might know dragon.....

JasonDavis wrote:You might know dragon.....

Dragon. What an epic name. Hahaha I love you Jason. Thanks for showing me this silly thread. My code name is
Double dragon.

@ "dragon" do you breath hot fiya ?

DPC wrote:Lets all talk about our ego's and what we would have done instead. Wait I think that already happened.

Nothing to do with ego... it sounds to me like you were dropped. Plain and simple... You don't get rope burns if a device is locked off or your are in control of the brake end.

This thread sucks - some chick writes a post blaming the climber for decking - when in fact she dropped the dude. Die Zombie Thread.

CaptainMo wrote: Nothing to do with ego... it sounds to me like you were dropped. Plain and simple... You don't get rope burns if a device is locked off or your are in control of the brake end. This thread sucks - some chick writes a post blaming the climber for decking - when in fact she dropped the dude.

Huh? Sure you can get rope burns with a locked off device, especially on the opposite hand. Had it happen, more than once. Climber falls, device gets locked, slack piles up above the device as they fall, then zings back out as the pro comes into play and rope goes tight. If you've got a body part anywhere near the rope as it goes tight, you can get burned easily.

"It still baffels me to be honest that people use non autolockers for belaying.

Mo.... your baffeled? why?

I have been climbing for almost 40 years.... where did all the time go???

I don't like to use auto-locking for many reasons but the #1 is this:

When the leader starts flying, I hang on hard. Its just the way it is.

I do use a grigri (sp) on very steep sport, sometimes, but I just have never felt really expert with its use.... so I use a ATC.

After reading all the back and forth on this topic my .02 is this, and I have watched this go down many times.
Belayer has to much slack in system to begin with and is not ready for the leader to fall off. Also the ATC is not locked off so when the flyer goes down.... rope gets pulled through devise and the last hand going to the climber. Belayers hand knows this, so it grabs down tight while rope rips through, burning the hand.

Good thing no one died.

you shouldnt get burned on yr brake hand when cragging no matter what device you use ...

if you do the belayer screwed up ... or/and you made a poor belayer/rope size decision prior to leaving the ground

on multi with a high factor fall it could be a different story ... but this is cragging

its that simple ;)

breeder... good point, cause it's LOCKED OFF..

I see way to many folks just sitting there, both hands out in front of the ATC....

Maybe its just me but I always speak up when I see bad belaying at the crags.

When I learned how to hold falls .... hip belay 101, they made you hold a big one. Most folks dropped the PIG to the dirt the first time they tried to catch it.

Becoming a good belayer was like the first step to becoming a climber.

Today, I think the only belay skills taught are the weak little "tests" given at the gym or worse the 30second instructions on "how this works" given to some n00b right before you trust your life to them.

Too many people I interested in an activity meant for the few, getting in over their heads without learning the ropes.

Interesting idiom, "learning the ropes".

Jeez . . . it seems like the longer a thread gets, the lower the reading comprehension gets.

Those of you saying the belayer dropped the climber, try re-reading the first post. The climber was on lead; he was 30' up the route; and he was runout 15' from his last pro. In other words, he was in groundfall territory, he wasn't dropped.

As for how the belayer got rope burns, she explained that in a later post. I bet if you look hard you can find it.

JL

saxfiend wrote:Jeez . . . it seems like the longer a thread gets, the lower the reading comprehension gets. Those of you saying the belayer dropped the climber, try re-reading the first post. The climber was on lead; he was 30' up the route; and he was runout 15' from his last pro. In other words, he was in groundfall territory, he wasn't dropped. As for how the belayer got rope burns, she explained that in a later post. I bet if you look hard you can find it. JL

+1

And, the leader was in the act of clipping as he fell, so he had more than 30 feet of rope out at that moment.

Sax and Brigette......

15 feet out, 30 feet up... and clipping.

Boy oh Boy, You could have stopped the climber from DECKING...

Its called ... take in a handfull, and drop .... you need to see this comming and be ready to reel in rope, jump down or run back fast.

Do it right and no rope burns...

Happy new years.

this is 4 years old, go finf something else to bitc about... like religion or politics

Guy Keesee wrote:15 feet out, 30 feet up... and clipping. Boy oh Boy, You could have stopped the climber from DECKING... Its called ... take in a handfull, and drop .... you need to see this comming and be ready to reel in rope, jump down or run back fast.

Theoretically, maybe. In practice, no.

This thread is like when your 65 year old neighbor screams at the TV, "C'mon Peyton, I could've made that throw." Easy to say sitting in the comfort of your living room...

Climber is responsible for their own safety. For everyone saying the belayer could have ran backwards, taken in slack, used a Gri-Gri, said a prayer, spun on her head, etc., as a climber, I never rely on my belayer to make some unbelievable save in the heat of the moment and it's foolish if you expect them to also. It's a bonus if that happens, but not the norm. Your belayer is the back-up, you as the climber are the primary safety device.

Seeing as how the facts were, 30 feet off the deck and fifteen feet PLUS of rope out, the only thing the belayer could have done was something pretty incredible. Not impossible, but it would have taken a truly expert belayer to have kept that climber off the deck.

I remember a story in Clear Creek where a guy sat back in his harness at the anchor when he was off belay. As he was rocketing toward the ground some SUPERHERO on an adjacent climb grabbed the rope and managed to stop the climbers fall just by holding the rope, giving himself rope burns in the meantime. It wouldn't be fair for the falling climber to expect this, it's not the norm. Just like it's not fair for a climber who is objectively in groundfall territory to expect some miracle catch by their belayer. All that being said, it sounds like she did a decent job keeping this guy alive.

It's dangerous out there. Don't rely on anyone else to protect you if you put yourself in an unprotectable situation.

this is 4 years old, go finf something else to bitc about... like religion or politics

Mr. Hand..... Made you stop in.... for a bit of entertainment.

... some topics never go out of style, I was laughing my rear end off when I found this... it was bumped by somebody.
And cause not much goes on on MP, of any substance anyway, this went to the top of the heap.

So why don't you chill out, sorry for ruffling your feathers, or harshing your mellon.

Happy climbing