The "best" climber in the world

Blah, blah, blah...

Why are you so afraid of strong, young, people clipping bolts?

This thread has existed in various incarnations for over a decade. It really comes down to posters who are afraid of hard climbers, so they fall back on some vague notion of 'all arounders' to justify their own weaknesses. Boring.

I'll just say this- someone like ondra is way more likely to break into hard alpinism than most alpinists would be to start climbing 5.15.

And I agree that Lama is the future of all-arounders.

camhead wrote: It really comes down to posters who are afraid of hard climbers, so they fall back on some vague notion of 'all arounders' to justify their own weaknesses.

How naughty of you to be bursting bubbles on xmas!

Alex Huber for sure crushes sport routes up to 15a, free soloed a 5.14a, expert speed climber on el cap. Big wall free climbs up to 13b (maybe harder. And first free ascent of trango towers 13b.

camhead wrote:This thread has existed in various incarnations for over a decade. It really comes down to posters who are afraid of hard climbers, so they fall back on some vague notion of 'all arounders' to justify their own weaknesses. Boring. I'll just say this- someone like ondra is way more likely to break into hard alpinism than most alpinists would be to start climbing 5.15. And I agree that Lama is the future of all-arounders.

Sounds great. Although, "likely" and actually possessing the skills and experience are two very different things. Maybe you're right and he really could throw the ball over that mountain. Then again, maybe he's a shite hiker or bad at some other crucial aspect of the alpine game. Dunno, ya know?

Sure, Ondra or somebody like him is likely the best climber in the world. Equally boring to contemplate to my mind, but I never got into baseball card collecting and stats either. I didn't ever hang that Michael Jordan poster above my bed. Either way, hard climbers are nothing to be afraid of as you say. Possibly jealous is what you meant?

I honestly find Ondra and a lot of the current crop of hard sport climbs one of the least satisfying things to follow. A lot of the upper end sport climbing just doesn't follow compelling features, so you're left with a number and and an account of how very very hard the climber worked until s/he sent it. Maybe there's a little sidebar on how so-and-so subsequently down-rated it or whatnot to serve as spice in such a plain dish.

There are a lot of different games and aspects to climbing and you happen to like your specialization. I dunno, I guess that makes me just another weakmo who admires weak all arounders like Tommy Caldwell and Dave McLeod, maybe a good story of adventure on something big and inspiring. That sounds about right.

Somebody like Lynn Hill who completely redefined the concept of what a free climb is really possesses the balls and vision that define the best climber in my big book of weak climbers.

I think Adam Ondra is pretty annoying. But, his ability is completely unprecedented. Has any other person named pushed the limits of _any_ climbing discipline so resoundingly by age 19? Of course Caldwell and Macleod are better all-rounders, but they're also both 15 years older.

Also, if you could climb like Ondra or Sharma, why the hell would you aid climb?

Colonel Mustard wrote: Sounds great. Although, "likely" and actually possessing the skills and experience are two very different things. Maybe you're right and he really could throw the ball over that mountain. Then again, maybe he's a shite hiker or bad at some other crucial aspect of the alpine game. Dunno, ya know? Sure, Ondra or somebody like him is likely the best climber in the world. Equally boring to contemplate to my mind, but I never got into baseball card collecting and stats either. I didn't ever hang that Michael Jordan poster above my bed. Either way, hard climbers are nothing to be afraid of as you say. Possibly jealous is what you meant? I honestly find Ondra and a lot of the current crop of hard sport climbs one of the least satisfying things to follow. A lot of the upper end sport climbing just doesn't follow compelling features, so you're left with a number and and an account of how very very hard the climber worked until s/he sent it. Maybe there's a little sidebar on how so-and-so subsequently down-rated it or whatnot to serve as spice in such a plain dish. There are a lot of different games and aspects to climbing and you happen to like your specialization. I dunno, I guess that makes me just another weakmo who admires weak all arounders like Tommy Caldwell and Dave McLeod, maybe a good story of adventure on something big and inspiring. That sounds about right. Somebody like Lynn Hill who completely redefined the concept of what a free climb is really possesses the balls and vision that define the best climber in my big book of weak climbers.

Some people like sexy young porn, you like old narsty porn, no harm, no fowl!

Jonhy Q wrote: Some people like sexy young porn, you like old narsty porn, no harm, no fowl!

I get what you're saying. He doesn't float my boat, but I could see a young buck like you going for Adam O..

wivanoff wrote: I've climbed with him, BITD. Been to his home. Had dinner with he and his wife at the time. Haven't seen him recently, though. I've seen him climbing with others and always got the impression - especially with newer climbers - that he was encouraging. Like he genuinely wanted them to be able to climb the route. I felt that way when I climbed with him and others have told me the same thing. At the same time, on at least one FA with him when I fell off while seconding, he lowered me all the way to the ground to start over again. "You can't count the FA if you've rested on the rope" I've seen him jump all over someone for dropping a cigarette butt at the base of the cliff. And seen him go nuts on some teenagers who were spray painting graffiti on the rock at the top of the small cliff at Ragged. I've seen him place bolts on the lead and second others when they placed bolts on the lead. I'd say his ethic at the time was "ground up" climbing. No power drills and no bolting on rappel. I can't speak as to his current ethics. Working with him, he certainly was focused. Almost to the point of driving me nuts- LOL. Later, he wrote that my "patience was infinite". He's pretty vocal. And he has some pretty vocal enemies. Can't say that I agree with everything he's said/done. But, I have no bad feelings towards the guy.

Interesting. I find it hard to believe that someone like that would maliciously destroy a route and bolts with a sledge hammer to the point that the goverment has to step in and intervene. But apparently he did it, he plead guilty and no contest and served 24 months of probation.

Just say Lowe!! Hands down the best all-rounder in the world was either Alex Lowe, George Lowe, or Jeff Lowe.

I'm not sure what he's been up to lately, but Josh Wharton is about at well rounded as anyone I've ever been around. Mountains, ice, rock, boulder, gyms. He pretty much excels in any environment. I don't think Sharma has ever even tried to do any serious mountaineering or high altitude rock climbing. Josh is bold at high altitude at a high grade.

I'm assuming this thread is about people who are alive. Otherwise it gets too unwieldy.

Smarty Ports/Shants wrote: Or gay porn. Just sayin'.

So the end of days involves me learning that my Battlnet AND xbox live screen names would be good ghey pr0n names.. sigh. Meh, if that's as bad as it gets..

Surprised no has mentioned Bonatti, his n face rt in winter on the Matterhorn as example oh I forgot Solo

For me still Wolfgang Güllich, he was the first climbing 5.14d red point!!!! I think there are not more than 2 or 3 doing this up to now.....

red point includes clipping the quick draws!!!!!!!

Chris Preston, he did the first ascent of Suicide Wall (5.10d R/X) in North Wales in 1947. So I would say that in 1947 he was the best climber in the world, and should factor in any running list of significant ascents.
Excellent picture here .

The best climber in the world is the one who goes has fun and gets back down.The easiest trad climb is better than any sport climb and Layton Kor needs to be in there.

Scott M. McNamara wrote:It was Alex Lowe who said: The best climber in the world is the one that has the most fun. Alex Lowe

Indeed

OK, I agree, the "best climber" is you, ..... me, when I'm having a buttload of fun challenging myself, workin' my ass off, scared half-shitless, feeling confident, then pulling thru it! DAMN THAT IS IT!

John McHugh wrote:Ueli Steck?

I second this vote. dude is really a Machine.

Alex was friggin' awesome, he walked up to repentance on cathedral ledge and led it in one pitch with a 400 foot rope.....bad ass