New climbing gym in SLC?

Speaking of rumors, it's worth mentioning The Front's big expansion project.

Anybody able to expand on the rumors, especially a Front expansion rumor? I haven't heard anything about it.

Dustin's hair must be graying fast if he's tackling and expansion project in SLC after opening the Ogden site.
+1 on the need to hear more about these expansions/Momentum North rumors.

I've also heard the rumor that Front-SLC was expanding into an adjacent building to offer lead/TR climbing.

I've heard the rumor about Momentum building a second gym in SLC, but I thought it was going to be bouldering only. I haven't heard anything about the Front though.

I've never started a business before, and obviously the biggest hurdle would be to get investors and/or loans to build something nice. I was thinking around $3 million, but a lot of that depends on the building/location. I was thinking somewhere on the west side that is still close to downtown, but cheaper would be the way to go. There seems to be a lot of old warehouses and such available for sale or lease. My other idea was the old DI building in Sugarhouse. That thing would be huge if you could take out the floors. I'm sure that place isn't cheap though.

I would love to do some kind of co-op that people could buy into ownership and volunteer to run it, set routes, and that kind of stuff. Again though, the initial cost would be extremely high, and I don't see a bank giving a loan for a co-op. Maybe this would be good to start on a small scale though and expand in the future.

As far as the clientele at the different gyms, I don't think it's ever going to be all people that you like or relate to. I fully understand that birthday parties, family fun nights, and beginners getting day passes and renting gear (while annoying to seasoned climbers)is where a large gym would have to make most of it's money. I love this sport and I think it would be great to have a part in introducing new people to it in a safe, fun environment. At the same time, I would want to have plenty of harder routes to keep the pros happy. I think people need to lighten up and just enjoy themselves. I would love to have a nice gear shop too to offset costs.

I'm happy to see that this idea is getting a good response on here though. I'm wondering if anyone on here (maybe with some more business experience than me) would be interested in partnering up?

>>> I'm wondering if anyone on here (maybe with some more business experience than me) would be interested in partnering up>>

"I helped build a gym in Idaho Falls back in 1995. Its still there, still open. (Its taken on half a dozen bail out investors over the years, but its still there.) ... Where there is a will, there is a way."

Hey Tim, if I was younger, I'd be all over it. Would I do it again? You bet.

>>>I've never started a business before, and obviously the biggest hurdle would be to get investors and/or loans to build something nice. I was thinking around $3 million, but a lot of that depends on the building/location.>>>

You may try talking with the City. Not a bad idea having a S.L.C. Climbing Gym in the business district. I know the City of Ogden has really gone all out to make their downtown more outdoors oriented. The gym in Idaho Falls eventually sold to the YMCA who runs it now. Maybe you could approach a city rec. center about an addition. If so I'm sure there are grants you can ask for.

>>>I love this sport and I think it would be great to have a part in introducing new people to it in a safe, fun environment. At the same time, I would want to have plenty of harder routes to keep the pros happy.>>>

This is the right attitude that will take your business far.
Good luck!

If these rumors or expansions and new buildings are true, sounds like other gyms are trying to figure out a way to get a bigger slice of the pie.

For the others,
Who ever said there is something wrong with PB&J, shopping at REI, eating at a bar, sleeping in a tent or Motel? I personally have done everything I mentioned. Some of us are dirt bags (Low income), some of us have well paying jobs (High income). Some of us have internet, some don't have an address. Who said one was better?

If you were offended, you need to think about why.

Tim, you should check out Denver Bouldering Club. Their business model is set up a lot like a coop and seems to be going quite well.

Denverboulderingclub@gmail.com

OldManRiver wrote:There are two types of climbers in the world...

There are two types of people in the world; those who categorize people, and those who don't.

OldManRiver wrote:newbies working on their first 5.9

Burly noobs!
Here's to hoping another gym or 12 pop up. I wonder how Rockreation would fare, it seems like the crowds have been thinning over the years. It might be my hours that have changed... I'd hate to see the place go down if a brand new gym opens nearby. Guess that's what business is about.

Gyms draw their business and members from a 20 minute drive radius. Just draw a 20 minute radius on any target location and see where it intersects with another gym's 20 minute radius. Where the areas overlap the customers will have a choice and then they will go to the gym that better appeals to them.

Bouldering gyms appeal to 18-30 year old males. You can typically count on one hand the number of >40 year olds in a bouldering gym (I speak as a 40+ year old :). Once both men and women get over 30, they tend to prefer roped climbing gyms over bouldering gyms. Given the choice, these demographics will migrate to roped climbing if available.

Good gyms in busy markets (Denver, Boulder, SLC, Seattle, SF, etc.) tend to be limited by the amount of climbing surface area more than any other aspect... i.e. good gyms in busy markets will get as many climbers as their facility can support... but once it gets crowded that will limit their growth.

Why are bouldering gyms seemingly so popular now? Because they are radically cheaper to build and operate. In particular, you don't need a 30+ foot building. 15' buildings are a dime a dozen. Not so much in the 30+ foot size which can really limit the possibilities and drive up the initial investment cost.

But as stated above, bouldering gyms only capture a portion of the market.

I'm just stating the facts. Don't shoot the messenger.

.wisdom.
+1

Considering the number of fucking haunted houses in SLC, one would think we climber could support another climbing gym. If Fear Factory can pay the bills, there must be other abandoned/underused industrial property that could be put to good use.

So Andy, want to come start a gym near downtown over here? I promise to keep you supplied with full strength homebrew on tap for as long as it takes to get it up and running.

Andrew Gram wrote:So Andy, want to come start a gym near downtown over here? I promise to keep you supplied with full strength homebrew on tap for as long as it takes to get it up and running.

One gym in my portfolio is plenty. And I live in Bend now... and last I checked SLC is outside my 20 minute drive radius :)

But I appreciate the homebrew offer! I'd like to sample your creations next time I am in SLC.

Drat. Oh well - come on over for homebrew anytime. I also made 16 gallons of apricot wine this summer from the tree in the backyard. It is actually pretty good!

If somebody wants to start a gym in downtown SLC, PM me. I have info on logistics

oh and +1 for Rockreation being the only place to climb with a furnace in the winter.

and +1 for good vibes. vibeeeesssss mannn

dubb reggae

build a tall steep lead wall and they will come.

All good thoughts. HOW ABOUT getting Jeff at Rockreation to expand into the parking lot.
probably cheaper than starting over. just a thought. ss

Jon Zucco wrote: There are two types of people in the world; those who categorize people, and those who don't.

There are two types of people in the world; those who categorize people and those who say they don't.