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Never repeated routes in AZ.

Todd Gordon · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 10,796

Arachnid Mesa, Canyon de Chelly.....9 pitches. No 2nd ascent FA Nov. 1983. .....29 years...

jbak x · · tucson, az · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,671

Five Mile Wall is in Kerry's guide. I doubt anyone goes there, but I bet every route has been repeated. I camped 2 seperate weekends in the early 80s and we did most all of them.

Jonas Salk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 10

People go to 5 mile wall Jbak, it's a great place to be!

CJD · · Chino Valley, AZ · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 35

I've done several first and last ascents around AZ. Mostly because of their obscure location and that we never reported them.

Verde-Go and Hollow Gospel on the Verde-Go tower. I did these with Jim Gaun and Bryan Smith in the 90's. They are accessed by floating the Verde River from Beasley Flat to Childs. On a tower found just off the river on the left in a spot shown on topo maps as Gospel Hollow. I think they are both 2 pitches and around 5.9 ish.

I don't think anybody has repeated some of the routes some of us put up in Sedona in the 80's Queens Bishop comes to mind. It's a long right leaning diagonal corner way left of Technicolor Corner and right of Epitaph.

I put up a some routes in the McDowells in the 80's that have probably never been seen again. The best was the N face of Tranquility Spire on Windy Walks (now Troon) with Mike Lawson and Gerald Guidroz. Death of Ethos we called it.

Many of the routes at Tamo have not been repeated just because nobody bothers to go there but they are great.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

No way dude, Tamo gets visited quite a bit and your routes are repeated there often. Great Stuff Chris! I'd love to repeat Queens Bishop if you think it is worthy.

CJD · · Chino Valley, AZ · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 35

Manny,

Queens Bishop is a nice route and I have a standing offer of a six pack to the second ascent who can accurately describe the top rap anchor. If you do it in 2013 you will have the honor of doing the 30th anniversary ascent FA in 1983. Like many of the routes we did back then it is light on fixed pro. I hear the home made bolt hangers we used on Technicolor Corner are still there and people actually trust them! I think Mike Lawson made those out of a mailbox.

On QB we did four pitches up the diagonal line then rapped before reaching the top of the formation because it looked like it was going to be death aid as I remember. One belay was a single baby angle and a nut beaten into the crack. I left a fixed hex or something for the rap anchor at the top and I think the second rap was one bolt or baby angle drilled in the face but not on the route. I think we maybe placed 2 protection bolts on the second or third pitch where it traverses onto the face for a ways. It isn't really that hard, maybe 10a? Most is easier. The last pitch has a cool short chimney that is made by a thin flake and you end up liebacking the thinnest part. Some huecos with cams stuffed in them for pro.

I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon.

I think Verde-go is worth the effort too. You can hike into it on the Towel Creek trail off the Fossil Creek Rd.

Glad to hear more people are enjoying Tamo. Hopefully that will encourage people to keep it accessible.

Ronnie Miller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 355
Josh Janes wrote:Has Lost Horizon been repeated?
Lost Horizon was repeated by the kid from Utah. Can't remember his name right now, but he was living in Flag for a while.
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
CJD wrote: I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon..
Are you talking about applewhite/middendorfs aidline? Left leaning crack. I posted it on mp. That thing could use some work. It would be more inspiring if it topped out.
CJD · · Chino Valley, AZ · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 35

Darren, No that is on the overhanging wall to the right of Queens Bishop. QB leans right. The wall curves around to the left of the overhanging line and becomes more S facing. QB is on that section of wall.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

CJD: "One belay was a single baby angle and a nut beaten into the crack" sounds like a real adventure. Maybe I'll wait til it sprouts a bolt on the anchor. Ballsy amigo.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

I don't think Leapin' Lizards on Anduriel Tower has been repeated. It is a boulder problem type of route that you kids could probably do pretty easily.

Alex Kirkpatrick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 335

What about 'the cost of glory' on lemmon. Also, any word on if OTR is good?

dah3586 Hein · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 125

No War (.13b/c, The Beach) was on the list, but you can remove it now, as Alex just sent it today.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Nice going Alex!

MJW · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 20

I've wondered if anyone has repeated Ripple(11+) on Ripple Wall. Not sure if Argueso ever went back to do it after I put it up. Would be a good candidate for a retro job and some anchors.

Alex Kirkpatrick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 335

Eric, did the boulderite mention if OTR was any good?

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

He didn't Alex. I have no idea if it is good or not. Go do it and post up.

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751
dah3586 wrote:No War (.13b/c, The Beach) was on the list, but you can remove it now, as Alex just sent it today.
Nice Alex!
Paul Davidson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 607
CJD wrote: with Mike Lawson...
Chris, speaking of, do you know where Mike is these days ?
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1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Tallest Man On Earth 12. Pretty sure this has not been repeated. mountainproject.com/v/talle…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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