Climbing rope questions.
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So I have plenty of fat ropes (10.5mm). Looking to get something with a smaller diameter. I would like something 9.8mm or less. The fat ropes are great but don't feed all that well through the gri gri (short roping my climber on clips) plus they are heavy. That being said, what's a solid rope 9.8mm or less, good price, brand, and what kind of UIAA rating should I be looking for? I'm sure the $250 ropes out there are find but looking for something closer to my budget. Any suggestions? My area doesn't have any multi pitch climbs so should I go for 60M or just go for the 70M in the rare occasion I would need it? Thanks MP |
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ebay.com/itm/Edelweiss-Rock…
Edelweiss Rocklight 9.8 on sale on Ebay. I used one of these for a couple years. |
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Oh and just to be a smart ass, you could try belaying with an ATC;) |
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something to think about ... |
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Discussion on the Mammut Infinity here - that's my suggestion - mountainproject.com/v/mammu… |
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Thanks for the feedback. |
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Edelweiss energy 9.5 |
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Blue Water Double Dry Lightning Pro 9.7 60 or 70m |
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I can attest to the Boa being an awesome rope. I won one in a raffle and though it was going to blow. not the case at all |
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John Wilder wrote:Edelrid Boa, 9.8mm 60m standard entry rope, retails at $150 year round. Handles well enough and you can even buy it at REI. If you wanna go fancy, the bi-color version is $190.i owned the python which is the boas bigger brother ... it lasted a week before i took it back to MEC ... no TRing or anything crazy ... the sheath was coming apart badly ... as a reference ive done much worse things on my current ropes from TR gangbangs to big sport whippers ... etc ... and theyve lasted much longer and looked better even after months of daily use ... and im not the only one with this issue i know of with the Boa/Python series i suspect it has something to do with the relative loose weave of the sheath ... it does handle like a dream though ;) |
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John Wilder wrote:Edelrid Boa, 9.8mm 60m standard entry rope, retails at $150 year round. Handles well enough and you can even buy it at REI. If you wanna go fancy, the bi-color version is $190.Another strong nod for the Boa. We used one all year last year, roughly three times a week sport climbing, and that rope held strong and felt great the entire time. We often chuckled about it being classified as a "entry level" rope but being better than many of our supposed high-end ropes. If you want to go smaller, I've been really happy with the Mammut Infinity 9.5. |
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You say $250 is too much, but what is your budget? $150? |
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Two suggestions - |
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John Wilder wrote:Full disclosure- I did work for Edelrid for a short time, but no longer do so. Not sure why that matters on a thread like this, but whatever. The python and cobra both suck, the Boa doesn't, don't know why. Don't much care. For a full price rope, the Boa is hard to beat. I've been happy with the performance of mine. If you care that much about price, get the cheapest rope you can.Hi, you got an opinion on the heron 9.8mm and the viper 9.6mm? I have a heron and my buddy has the viper, we use it mostly for single pitch sport, often multipitch sport/trad. We're european so lots of rainy/moist days, thats why i wanted a dry rope. My rope has stopped quite some small lead falls without any problem, but after one moderate fall on alpine granite, i have this spot where the mantle is pretty damn scuffed, more than i would expect from a rope thats been used for less than one season... I specifically chose this rope because its stated it can take 8 uiaa falls, more than most other models, thinking it would last. Bad purchase or overworried? |
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Beal 10.2 feeds well, is flexible, and seems to be pretty darn durable. Doesn't feel as girthie as other 10.2's I've used |
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People who are comparing two ropes of similar diameters can usually see this in the test resultsMammut publishes the % of each ropes weight that is sheath so that people can judge for themselves what rope they will be happiest with. If you fall a lot, choose a rope with a high fall rating; if you dont fall that much then choose a ropes with a thicker sheath (and if the manufacturer doesnt publish that info call them and ask for it!). If you climb both abrasive rock and you fall alot, then think about how you wore out your last ropeif it went flat 10 or 15 feet from the ends, then get the rope with the high fall rating for the size and if the rope just fuzzed up to the point it felt sketchy or fat or lost its dry treatment, then concentrate on a rope with a thick sheath and a compact weave.
highinfatuation.com/blog/st… |
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it makes sense if you think about it ... in theory a rope with a very high number of falls ... ie the beal flyer II (11 falls) will likely last longer in terms of big sports whippers than one with say 5-6 falls ... |
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Most 9.8mm ropes can handle 4-6 falls, but I just read that the Metolius Monster 9.8mm can handle 9 falls (as opposed to the Boa's 5 falls)! I was looking for a new rope recently, and decided to get the Beal Edlinger II 10.2mm x 70m (which can take 8 falls) for $140 from alpenglowgear.com. All Beal ropes have dry-treatment, which makes them a little slicker through belay devices, and this rope's sheath and core are attached, which prevents slippage and makes it safer. I decided that bicolor ropes aren't worth the additional $50, because I can always mark the middle and 5m from each end with a nylon-safe marker. Dry-treatment shouldn't be a deciding factor if you're just rock climbing single-pitch crags. When comparing ropes on a budget, first decide on your mandatory width and length (for you, it seems 9.8mm x 70m), then just calculate price/#falls for each one. Beal seems to have some of the best prices based on number of falls. |
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Gear Express has the 60m Edelweiss Energy 9.5 for cheap. Do that. |
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michaeltarne wrote:Gear Express has the 60m Edelweiss Energy 9.5 for cheap. Do that.i love gear express and edelweiss. just received today my new edlweiss 9.9 onsight, 60 meter, bi pattern dry rope for $160 (it's on closeout). can't beat that. it's my third or fourth edelweiss. love their ropes. |
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I use Beal Stinger 9.4s. I got a line on a pro-deal a while back, and got addicted. I've now bought 3 of them at the $250 price tag... which sucks. I have seen them pop up for cheap a few times when they change colors though. |