Pain Deep in hand

The other day at the gym i injured my hand. I don't really remember how I injured my hand. I do know that it want like a sharp pain and d didn't hear any thing pooping or tearing ( i think). I knew that my hand was not right but the pain wasn't terrible. I kept climbing for a few more routes but then quit pretty quickly. Below is an image of where my hand hurts. I have a really hard time closing my hand it takes a while to close my hand and its pain full when I close my hand. The pain is emanating between my middle finger and my ring finger. There is no pain in any of the A3 tendons.

Im just wondering if any one has experienced this before. If you have experienced this injury could you tell me about possible treatment and estimated recovery time.

Sounds like you may have strained the flexor tendon of your ring finger. Any chance you were pulling hard on 2 finger pockets? Its a good thing you didn't hear anything "pooping."

Kirtis wrote:The other day at the gym i injured my hand. I don't really remember how I injured my hand. I do know that it want like a sharp pain and d didn't hear any thing pooping or tearing ( i think). I knew that my hand was not right but the pain wasn't terrible. I kept climbing for a few more routes but then quit pretty quickly. Below is an image of where my hand hurts. I have a really hard time closing my hand it takes a while to close my hand and its pain full when I close my hand. The pain is emanating between my middle finger and my ring finger. There is no pain in any of the A3 tendons. Im just wondering if any one has experienced this before. If you have experienced this injury could you tell me about possible treatment and estimated recovery time.

I did the same thing about two months ago plus the dreaded pop. Slow to heal. Buddy taping lets me climb on it. Lumbrical muscle tear. Look into it. There is a link to some medical journal articles in another post here.

Thanks I read up about Lumbrical Muscel tears and it sounds like that is probably what I have. It also consistent with the hold i think the injury my hand on. A three finger pocket on an big over hang where my pinky was dropped and not in the hold creating the tearing effect.

Any clue on how long it takes to heal and good ways to speed up recovery? Also do you just tape your middle and ring finger together and keep climbing. If so how long before I can climb again?

Not sure on how long to heal. Mine has been 2 months. Still an issue, but not like it was. Ive been using some nsaids. I took a couple weeks off and then started taping the two middle fingers together and climbing. Good luck!

I had the same injury. I was climbing a limestone roof, threw to an undercling pocket, and then I felt something was off. Same exact spot as you. Here's what I did and I didn't have to stop climbing for that long...

First week 6 or more ibprofuen a day, put hand in bucket of ice water for 10-15 minutes on and then half an hour off as many times as possible during the day. No climbing!

Second week: Cold water therapy, onlineclimbingcoach.blogspo…
I went out and scrambled a bunch of 4th and low 5th class this week cause I got bored and didn't know what to do other than climb...

Third week: continue cold water therapy and start to climb again but nothing that you feel like could even remotely hurt it. I stuck to crack climbing and less than vertical faces.

Fourth week and beyond: slowly ease the hand back onto harder holds but stay away from pockets.

It's now about three months out from my injury, and it was bad enough I couldn't even squeeze hard enough to hold a beer in that hand, and I'm 100% full strength again.

My roomate had the same injury on the same type of hold, and is in the middle of the same treatment and has made great progress.

Also I personally don't think taping this kind of injury is a great idea as it's easy to reinjure. The tape, for me, gives a false sense of strength to the injury. I'd rather just feel it, and not push it.

Hope this helps!